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Good cod! A bitesize history of fish and chips | BBC Ideas

BBC Ideas · 596 words · 3 min read

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0:00Eighty per cent of the British population

0:02say they visit a fish and chip shop at least once a year,

0:05and we consume 382 million meals from the chippie per annum.

0:09That’s pretty impressive

0:10for a combination that’s only been with us for around 150 years –

0:14for the first fish and chip shop only appeared in around 1860.

0:18Separately, both fried fish, and chips, were enjoyed by the British

0:21well before they came together.

0:23Chips as a term for something edible was in use in the 18th Century,

0:27often in relation, rather curiously, to oranges -

0:30orange chips were candied chunks of peel.

0:33It was in the same century

0:34that the potato was going from knobbly curiosity to staple food,

0:38especially for the poor,

0:39and given how well potatoes lend themselves to deep frying,

0:42it was inescapable that potato chips would soon be on the scene.

0:46By the Victorian era, chipped potatoes were everywhere,

0:49from the delicate little ‘straw potatoes’ -

0:52which resembled, well, straw - eaten by the rich,

0:54to the French street food, which Dickens described as

0:57“husky chips of potatoes fried with some reluctant drops of oil”.

1:01The British preferred baked potatoes, but they ate them fried too.

1:05Fried fish, meanwhile, was also on the tables of the rich and the poor.

1:09Bread-crumbed filets,

1:10delicately fried in butter and garnished with fried parsley,

1:12were a staple for upmarket meals.

1:15Whitebait, fried in lard, were considered a delicious delicacy.

1:18But there was another place fried fish could be bought,

1:20and that was the street -

1:22in the Jewish quarters of London and other big cities.

1:25There, Sephardic Jews sold cold fried fish

1:28intended for eating on the Sabbath

1:29when no cooking was allowed in Jewish homes.

1:31It quickly took off, being cheap, filling and tasty,

1:35and fried fish shops and market stalls - hot and cold -

1:38sprung up in cities across the UK.

1:40It was inevitable that these two street foods,

1:42so popular with the masses, would end up being sold in combination.

1:45It proved a winning formula and fish and chip shops took off immediately.

1:50Trawl fishing and the railway boom of the 1870s

1:52helped fish to reach inland areas quicker than ever before,

1:56and potatoes were already grown everywhere.

1:58By 1910 there were 25,000 fish and chip shops in the UK,

2:02and by 1929 there were 10,000 more.

2:06Such was the hold of fish and chips - and its genuine goodness,

2:09especially for its mainly working-class consumers -

2:11that during the Second World War,

2:13fish and chips remained off the ration,

2:15though the type of fish available

2:16was not always the most delicious or desirable of species.

2:20Across the UK, accompaniments vary - from the mushy peas of the north,

2:23to curry sauce, ketchup, mayonnaise or the chip shop spice

2:26which is on every counter in Hull.

2:28Salt and vinegar remain the staples.

2:31In the 21st Century chippie,

2:32vegetable fats have often replaced beef dripping or lard for frying.

2:36Newspaper used to be the wrapping of choice - outlawed,

2:39unless fresh from the printers and unsullied by readers’ hands, in 1968.

2:43Now it’s mainly plain paper and polystyrene,

2:46but the skillful wrapping and excitement of unwrapping remains.

2:50There are, however, fish and chips…

2:52and fish and chips.

2:54Witness the disappointment on the faces of tourists,

2:56lured by the promise of a great British delicacy,

2:59only to find they’ve happened upon the bad version,

3:02all grease and soggy batter.

3:04But then when it’s good…

3:06well, it’s crispy and fluffy, with a hit of vinegar, and a punch of salt.

3:10It's unbeatable.

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