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A brief history of sausages | Edible Histories Episode 8 | BBC Ideas

BBC Ideas · 532 words · 3 min read

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0:00Ah, the great British banger.

0:02Or the lovely salami.

0:03Or the battered saveloy.

0:04Hang on, just what is a sausage? And why do they taste so good?

0:09The concept of sausages goes back to antiquity -

0:11stuffing animal guts with a meat, fish or sweet batter mixture

0:14was an obvious and practical way

0:15to make easily cooked, transportable food.

0:18Originally, they were seen as small puddings –

0:20a large pudding was a haggis,

0:22done in a stomach, rather than a length of gut -

0:24and, like puddings, they were often boiled rather than fried.

0:27The French word for sausage, boudin,

0:29even gave us British the word ‘pudding’,

0:31since early puddings were sausages,

0:33and sausages really were a type of pudding.

0:36Sometimes they were smoked or air dried to keep through winter.

0:39Everywhere, though, for those who could afford it,

0:41a spiced fresh meat sausage was a pretty staple item.

0:44Even for those who couldn’t afford good meat and fine spice,

0:47sausages were about from very early on.

0:49There was a play called The Sausage Seller written in the 5th Century BC,

0:53and already then the lower-grade sausage

0:55had a whiff of uncertain meat

0:57disguised with judicious sauce about it.

1:00In the medieval era, northern, wetter climes such as the UK

1:03developed a speciality in fresh meat sausages,

1:05to be cooked before eating.

1:07Elsewhere, in dry climates such as the Mediterranean

1:09which had good, stiff breezes and mountains,

1:12dried or smoked sausages were more popular.

1:14There they would cure properly,

1:16and not simply go green as they would in Britain.

1:18There were still mixtures with fish, fruit and blood –

1:21black pudding for example –

1:22but as the centuries rolled on,

1:23most European sausages became based on a mixture

1:25of pork, pork fat and flavourings.

1:28They were not posh, and by the 18th Century

1:30they rarely appeared at the dinner tables of the wealthy -

1:32though they happily ate them as suppers and snacks.

1:34But they were very popular,

1:36and available for almost every possible budget.

1:39Mass production became possible by the mid-Victorian times,

1:41and even cheaper sausages came out, with a hefty filler of bread or rusk.

1:46Saveloys in particular gained a reputation

1:48for being based on off-cuts and filler,

1:50or indeed, horsemeat and sawdust in some people’s view.

1:53Then, as now, the dirt-cheap versions

1:55rubbed shoulders with the more expensive ones –

1:58until the First World War,

1:59when meat shortages meant that no-one got much meat in their casings.

2:02One theory as to why they became known as bangers,

2:05shortly after the war,

2:06is that the level of filler meant they banged and popped when fried.

2:09However, it’s just as likely to come from their shape,

2:11which resembled shell casings,

2:13not least as they were still often boiled to cook them.

2:16Normally, they are cylindrical,

2:17but they can, on occasion,

2:19be square like a Lorne.

2:20Today, eighty-five percent of Brits regularly consume sausages,

2:24plain, as bangers and mash or as in toad-in-the-hole –

2:27though globally it’s the cocktail sausage which is the king,

2:30for a bite-sized piece of porky glory.

2:32Small or large, contents as you wish,

2:35we’ve had sausages for thousands of years,

2:37and they are clearly here to stay.

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