How to Knit the Rhubarb and Custard Socks: Full Tutorial

0:00imagine slipping into a perfectly

0:03fitting beautiful handmade pair of socks

0:07that you have made from scratch hello my

0:10name is Janette I am the designer behind

0:12zanette nits and welcome to an indepth

0:15tutorial on how to make this pair of

0:18rhubarb and custard socks it is a tow up

0:23construction with a soul

0:26gasset and a honeycomb Brio heel flap

0:31finished with a tubular bindoff and I

0:33can tell you that in this case it's not

0:35just about the finished object it's also

0:38a really engaging knit because stranded

0:41Color Work keeps you hooked as you can

0:43see the pattern reveal itself as the

0:46sock grows so it's really hard to put

0:49down and it's packed with a lot of

0:50interesting techniques whether you're a

0:52sock knitting Pro or just started

0:54getting into socks this video will be a

0:58stepbystep guide through through the

1:00whole process demoing in detail every

1:03technique that's used and helping you

1:05master all the necessary skills if you'd

1:08like to knit along with me you'll need a

1:10sock yarn in two different colors and

1:14needles suitable for that yarn and most

1:16importantly you'll need the pattern uh

1:19you can download the pattern on rivalry

1:21uh searching for rhubarb and custard

1:23socks or follow the link in the

1:26description uh you can also download it

1:28from our website I'm a you already know

1:30how to make a gauge Swatch and how to

1:32adjust your needle size to match the

1:34gauge that's needed in the pattern which

1:36is 32 stitches by 38 rows in a 10x 10 cm

1:42or 4x4 in square uh done in Color Work

1:47stocking it after the blocking worked in

1:50the round of course in this tutorial

1:52we'll cover everything from the Clos

1:55costone that you'll need uh for the toe

1:58how to work the toe increases using

2:00lifted increases I'll give you some

2:03quick Color Work tips for tension how to

2:06figure out where to start the gusset how

2:09to make the gusset increases how to

2:11shape the heel using Japanese short rows

2:15and how to work this very intriguing

2:18looking honeycomb Brio heel flap and

2:22finally finishing it off with a one by

2:24one twisted rib and a tubular bindoff

2:27I've included chapters in the

2:29description below so please feel free to

2:31skip sections if I'm covering something

2:33that you already know as it is a rather

2:35long video so let's take a closer

2:40look there are multiple closed costom

2:43that can be used for these socks but I

2:46will demo the one that I've described in

2:47the pattern uh Judy's magic costone and

2:51for that you will need circular needles

2:53with quite a long

2:56cable and the yarn of course

3:00you can start by creating a slip knot

3:03and placing it on one of the needles

3:06like so or you can

3:10simply put some yarn through both of

3:12them so place the needles uh next to

3:16each other leave some tail and hold the

3:19yarn as if you would for a long tail

3:22costone and remember this Mantra that to

3:25get a loop on one of the needles

3:30you have to move the opposite so to get

3:34a loop on the bottom needle I'll have to

3:36move the opposite

3:38finger around the bottom here and

3:42through the top back in there it should

3:46look like that now I need to get a loop

3:49on the top needle so I move the opposite

3:51finger so that's the thumb around the

3:55bottom and wrap it around the top needle

3:59so that the yarn goes through through

4:03the middle of the both

4:04needles now I need a loop on the bottom

4:08needle so I'll take my top finger which

4:10is the index finger around the bottom

4:14through the

4:15middle and around the bottom through the

4:18middle around the bottom through the

4:20middle until I have the required Stitch

4:23count um in the pattern it says you

4:26should have 12 stitches on each needle a

4:29total of

4:30uh 24 so here's a few more

4:36attempts you can get quite quick when

4:39you wrap your head around

4:42it the opposite finger around the

4:46bottom and through the

4:48middle and then we'll look at how to

4:51knit the first uh first round once I've

4:55got all the required stitches now that

4:57I've got all my stitches and I want to

4:59knit the first round I have to remember

5:03to twist because they're very loose and

5:06fragile here I have to twist the

5:09stitches around so that I end up with

5:12the The Strand that's attached to the

5:16ball uh I have made many mistakes by

5:19continuing working with the shorter tail

5:22and then having to redo work so make

5:24sure you grab the The Strand that's

5:26attached to the yarn bowl or yarn cake

5:29and and turn it

5:32around like so so you can work across

5:35these

5:36stitches and pull out the bottom

5:40needle leaving all the stitches there on

5:43the

5:44cable and we just simply knit across

5:48needle one for

5:52the making sure we don't lose any of the

5:55loops twist it one more time if required

6:13and we do the same on the other needle

6:17so I'm pulling the

6:19cable to transfer all the stitches on

6:21the actual needle and here out pull it

6:24out so that this is why you need a

6:26circular needle with a long cable so you

6:29could do this figure of eight and it

6:33would it would and it would stretch far

6:36enough to allow you to uh to work

6:39without constraining

6:42yourself and uh there is a little trick

6:45for the second needle once you knit

6:48through the first Stitch you got to

6:51check how your stitches are mounted you

6:53will see that the first leg is actually

6:56at the back of the needle

6:59which means that to get the stitches

7:01lying properly you'll have to knit

7:03through the back Loop across this

7:07needle that's just because they ended up

7:09mounted the other way if you knit

7:12through the front Loop you'll end up

7:14with Twisted stitches and it won't look

7:16so neat but also not a big deal this is

7:19your first time it will also be much

7:22easier to work this needle through the

7:24back Loop

7:29and voila we have worked the first round

7:35this is where we would place the

7:37beginning of round marker but because

7:40there's uh so few stitches and we can

7:44clearly see that the castone tail um is

7:48hanging on this

7:50side while we do the toe

7:53increases I'll be I'll be remaining on

7:56the circular needles um and working one

7:59needle at a time and it's easy to spot

8:02the beginning of round because of this

8:04tail so I won't be bothering with any

8:06markers just yet well feel free to place

8:10a locking stitch marker in the work if

8:12that's easier for

8:15you after the cast on I'm ready to start

8:18my toe increases this is my first round

8:21of toe increases and this is a very

8:23symmetrical trapezoid shape so whatever

8:26we do on the first needle we'll simply

8:28have to repeat on the second needle

8:30until we have the required number of

8:33stitches and once again you can use

8:37whatever increase method you like as

8:40long as one of them is Right leaning so

8:43the first one should be right leaning

8:45and the second one should be left

8:46leaning my preferred ones for this um

8:49project are the lifted increases so we

8:53knit one

8:57stitch and we do a a right leaning

9:00lifted

9:01increase that's using the Stitch from

9:05row before and knitting into it again

9:09you can if you're able to insert your

9:12tip from from here like so you can

9:15simply knit through it without needing

9:18to put that stitch on the needle but if

9:21you like to but alternatively you can

9:24also lift it cuz it's much easier to

9:27insert the needle from Back to Front

9:30and then you kind of have to use your

9:31thumb to hold the existing

9:34stitches uh back so that uh this new

9:38Loop that you've picked up doesn't

9:39overlap and knit through the front Loop

9:44like that so that was my right leaning

9:47increase and I've done it to one stitch

9:50before the end of this

9:54needle at which point I'll be making my

9:58left leaning increase

10:00and the left leaning increase is uh

10:02using a stitch uh from below below but

10:06but on the opposite side so from the

10:09Stitches I just worked this is what I

10:11worked this was this row so I have to go

10:14kind of the third Strand and again I

10:18place it on the needle hold the existing

10:20Stitch back and

10:22knit through it

10:24again and that is my

10:27increase round or the first half of the

10:31increase round done I'll repeat exactly

10:34the same on the second needle and then

10:37I'll knit one round without any

10:39increases and I'll be swapping between

10:41an increase round and simple knit round

10:44until I have reached the desired Stitch

10:47count for my foot

10:52circumference I'm almost done with the

10:54toe increases just got one more plain

10:56round and I'm using that round to move a

10:59from circular needles to dpns I find a

11:03lot easier to work small circumferences

11:06on dpns than circular needles cuz I find

11:10that I waste a lot of time sliding

11:12stitches uh along the cable when I use

11:15circular needles so uh wooden light DPN

11:19for me work really well they're not as

11:22slippery as metal ones and they're

11:24lighter so they stay in the

11:27knitting and yeah I don't do any sliding

11:31of stitches oh and another thing it's

11:33probably a good time to add that

11:35beginning of round marker here if you're

11:37using circular needles then you can add

11:39the marker on the needles and make sure

11:42that as there's no risk that it would

11:45fall off but as I'm using dpns uh I

11:48can't really place the marker at the end

11:50of this needle it would keep falling off

11:52so I'm placing it in the work and I will

11:56just continue play moving it up as as

11:59the sock gets

12:00longer so I need 16 stitches per DPN for

12:05my size it's four more

12:09stitches and that goes on the last DPN

12:14and I'll be back to join the contrast

12:17color and start the color

12:20work and this is my first color work

12:23round I have chosen a very subtle

12:25contrast because I like the mild look uh

12:29of the sock that will produce I hope

12:32it's going to turn out the way I want it

12:34to and um I don't know why I just did

12:37that but you'll see later so the um the

12:41chart is the same for all sizes but

12:44depending on which size you work you

12:46would need to start with a different

12:48starting Stitch of the pattern repeat of

12:50the chart repeat so if your size says

12:53start with the Stitch number seven then

12:55you look at the chart it's got eight uh

12:58eight Stitch is eight Stitch columns you

13:00start with the seventh then work the

13:02eighth and then restart from 1 to eight

13:05again and go around and you should end

13:07with the sixths so that there is a

13:10seamless join here and that is uh to do

13:14with the gusset placement later so that

13:17for all sizes it aligns with um the same

13:21middle

13:23of the same Stitch uh and and and

13:27produce the same look I happen to be

13:30working size two which means my first

13:33Stitch is actually the first Stitch so

13:35there's nothing tricky about that I need

13:37to do two main color stitches before

13:41joining my contrast color and now you'll

13:43see why I did that little slip knot I

13:45like to join a new colors a new Yarns

13:49with a little slip knot that really puts

13:52it stably in the place stably is that

13:55word uh that stabilizes it in place and

13:58it's not moving around or stretching the

14:00first Stitch out too much so I'm going

14:03to work three stitches in the contrast

14:08color and then go back to my main color

14:12and work five stitches in main

14:17color I've already started the the

14:19second repeat of the the chart obviously

14:23that's now created an extra Stitch which

14:25I do not need and I will have to

14:27remember that when I encounter this bump

14:29on the next round I can just simply slip

14:32it off the needle and it will create a

14:34little uh knot at the back as well to to

14:37keep this tail in place and and you can

14:40see that the first Stitch um the first

14:43actual contrast color Stitch is the same

14:46size as all the others that makes it

14:49knitting um the first row of a new color

14:53a lot

14:55easier and I will uh after having done

14:59the first round I'll move on to the

15:01second row of the chart again um

15:04starting with the same Stitch that was

15:07specified in the pattern for your size

15:09so if it's the seventh always start with

15:11the seventh all the way to where the

15:14gusset should begin we'll talk about how

15:17to determine that in a short

15:22while and a couple of uh helpful Color

15:24Work standard Color Work tips that uh

15:27could get you nice nice and even tension

15:30first of all whenever you change colors

15:33make sure you stretch out the stitches

15:35that you have just

15:37worked and do that on every color change

15:41so I just I'm about to change color have

15:44to stretch out these stitches before

15:46picking up that and that will keep the

15:49float at the back nice and

15:53loose and second tip is to and second

15:57tip will help you keep the wrong side

16:00nice and tidy and keep your Yarns from

16:02getting tangled and your color work to

16:04pop more and just make sure that

16:07whenever you pick up to work with the

16:09contrast

16:10color that is for me the darker color uh

16:14pick it up from the

16:17bottom like so you could pick it you

16:20could pick the Strand either over the

16:22top of the current working yarn or from

16:26the bottom so if you're picking up cont

16:29color pick it up from the bottom so that

16:32the

16:33yarn uh is situated closer to the origin

16:37of the Stitch and that way it's pushed

16:40out a bit more so it pops on the

16:43background color and that means that

16:45whenever you're about to work with the

16:46background color or the main color in my

16:49case it's the white one pick it over the

16:52top of the current working strand

17:00and that will get the uh each color will

17:05have its own path along the line the

17:07main color will be always on the top and

17:10the contrast color always on the bottom

17:12so they will never get tangled and it

17:14will also make sure that the contrast

17:16color pops out just make just remember

17:19that if you all of a sudden swap the

17:23directions um and you start picking up

17:25the main color from the bottom that will

17:27then be the popping color and the

17:29contrast color will sort of recede into

17:31the work and won't be as visible it will

17:35it could look like an entirely different

17:40pattern and if you're somebody who works

17:43with um with two Yarns in each hand then

17:48make sure that you leave the main color

17:51on the right side and the contrast color

17:54on the left side and that way it will

17:57automatically be picked up from the

17:59bottom while you throw over the

18:04top a good question you'll have while

18:07you're working on the InStep here is

18:10where you need to start the gusset in

18:13the pattern I've already given uh some

18:16numbers uh that you can follow if your

18:19foot length uh matches the the foot

18:21length in the in in the pattern for that

18:24size but if your foot is longer or

18:26shorter I've also given you the length

18:30of this area here so that you can adjust

18:35uh by taking that away from your total

18:37foot length now in case your row gauge

18:40is different because um that can

18:43sometimes happen your Stitch gauge

18:44matches and your row gauge is different

18:47then you might need to do some

18:48calculations to find the perfect spot

18:51for your gusset for that I have a Blog

18:54article on my website going into detail

18:58on how to do those calculations but just

19:00quickly here uh to to cover the basics

19:04uh it assumes that the whole of the foot

19:07length is divided in three sections

19:10section A being um the point from the

19:14toe to where the gusset starts section B

19:17being um the length that it will take uh

19:21to complete all the gusset increases and

19:25section c simplistically assumes uh the

19:29the width of half of the heel flap and

19:32if you know your row gauge and your

19:34Stitch gauge um you can go through the

19:37pattern and figure out how many rounds

19:40you need to uh work the gusset increases

19:43that will give you um the the rounds for

19:47this section which you can then convert

19:50uh into uh centimeters or inches using

19:53your row gauge and um you you have also

19:57the number of Stitch is for your heel

19:59flap and given the Stitch gauge uh

20:03taking half of the heel flap you can

20:05figure out the width of this section

20:08here and that uh summing up this part

20:12and that part will give you uh the total

20:16length that you should that will be

20:19remaining from where you start the

20:21gusset so you can simply take the total

20:24length of the foot uh remove or subtract

20:28the the two pieces of of length that you

20:31just figured out and the the remaining

20:35part will be uh the length you need to

20:37achieve from the toe to where you need

20:39to start the gusset but please feel free

20:42to consult the blog article on zenet

20:44nit.com for further detail on

20:49this to set up the gasset I've already

20:52worked um from the beginning of round

20:54all the way to where my gasset will

20:57start and I am to place a marker

21:01here and knit one stitch in the main

21:05color and then I to use the contrast

21:09color and do a left leaning lifted

21:12increase so I pick up a stitch from the

21:15row below and put it put it on my um

21:20left needle and knit through

21:24it then I pick up the main color again

21:27and knit one more more

21:32Stitch and then I pick up the contrast

21:35color and make a right leaning lifted

21:39increase so I pick up the Stitch from

21:42the row

21:45below and knit into

21:48it and then I'm to take the main color

21:51again and knit one

21:54stitch and place a

21:57marker so that's is the first setup

22:01round and I will

22:04continue to the beginning of round

22:08starting with the

22:09second um p with the second Stitch of

22:14the chart and that means that every size

22:17for every size the middle of the

22:20gusset here should align with the

22:24first Stitch of the

22:27chart and this row is also the one that

22:29sets up the whole gusset we'll continue

22:32always knitting the first and last

22:34stitches in main color but as we add

22:37more stitches every other round we'll be

22:40uh starting them so that um the gusset

22:44is striped pattern so the next Stitch I

22:47increase will be in main color um and on

22:51both sides

22:53symmetrically but uh on the sides of the

22:56gusset we continue moving up

22:59um the chart I can't tell you which

23:02chart row you're supposed to do because

23:04that depends on how long uh your sock is

23:07but it will be the same row you worked

23:09before the

23:11gusset I will demonstrate the increases

23:14one more time on the next round so I'm

23:16going to do a plain round without

23:18increases and then then another round

23:21with increases until I reach the

23:24required Stitch count and the pattern

23:26says how many stitches you should have

23:28between the markers here one more time

23:31demo of the gusta increases so after the

23:35marker the first Stitch is always knit

23:37in main color and then when it's time to

23:39increase we look at what's the next one

23:41to work so in here I've got the contrast

23:45color that means I will have to increase

23:47in the main color again so left leaning

23:52increase like that hard to see behind

23:55the needle trying to hide it so pick up

23:59a

23:59stitch from the previous row and knit

24:03through

24:04that and then we carry on as established

24:08so I can see a contrast color Stitch and

24:11then a main color

24:21Stitch and now

24:24again contrast color Stitch and I've

24:27come to one Stitch before the other side

24:30of the gusset and I need to do my

24:33increase on the next color which in this

24:35case is the same as

24:39before I better put it on the needle

24:41here

24:44so knitting through that

24:47Loop and last gusted Stitch will always

24:51be in main color

24:58I am at the point of doing the first

25:01short row uh to shape the heel to add a

25:05little Half Moon uh because our heel is

25:09Round And it says to knit to the gusset

25:13marker a which is the first marker here

25:15slip the marker and then continue

25:18knitting with the main color to two

25:22stitches before the next gusset marker

25:27and continuing to uh trap the contrast

25:30color as we'll need it need to bring it

25:32all the way to the other side here so

25:35after every five or so

25:39stitches I'm just twisting the

25:42yarn Yarns behind um the on the other

25:48side of the work H so that the contrast

25:51color gets trapped and I can drag it all

25:55the way across the gasset

26:02and I am almost

26:05[Music]

26:07there this part is a bit

26:23fiddly so it set to knit to two stitches

26:27before the marker I'm going to do my

26:29last catching of the float and then I

26:34have to make an increase a right leaning

26:36lifted

26:37increase so here I'll just pick it up

26:40like that and knit

26:42through and then knit one more

26:47Stitch and do the short row turn so I

26:51like to use Japanese short rows but you

26:53can do whatever short row method you

26:55prefer of course and for Japanese short

26:57rows we need to trap the yard secure the

27:00yard before turning or after turning

27:03doesn't really

27:04matter but we will be using this little

27:08Loop uh to conceal the turn when we work

27:12over it on the consecutive rows and on

27:15the wrong side of the short row we do uh

27:19the same in Japanese short rows I like

27:21to slip the first Stitch uh to create a

27:23smoother step but that's entirely

27:25optional so I've slipped one and I will

27:29be pearling to two stitches um before

27:34that next

27:35marker this time I don't need to catch

27:38the floats anymore because I can leave

27:42this contrast color hanging here I'll be

27:45continuing it with it from

27:49there my yarn's gotten real Tangled now

28:06just quickly untangle

28:12them and actually because I be you'll be

28:15working the heel flap the rest of the

28:17short rows and the heel flap with the

28:19main color I will tuck this contrast

28:23color inside the sock so it

28:26doesn't um get in the

28:33way again do two stitches before the

28:37next marker it is definitely one of the

28:43[Music]

28:51fiddlestrings needles stabbing me in the

28:54palms and I have to yet to find a a

28:57great way but we'll get through it it's

29:00not too much so two stitches before the

29:04next marker and I need to do a right

29:06leaning Pearl increase so uh instead of

29:09creating a knit stitch I'll be creating

29:11a pearl stitch but the concept's the

29:13same placing it on the needle and

29:18pearling through it again and I pearl

29:22one more before once

29:26again dropping the

29:30yarn if you're using Japanese short rows

29:34and

29:34[Music]

29:36turning let the bobby pins Dangle on the

29:39other side so the next short row we do

29:44is work to four stitches before the

29:47previous

29:49turn so in this short row we'll have to

29:53identify where we turned and for

29:56Japanese short rows it's very easy to do

29:58so I just pulled this bobby pin here and

30:01I can see that I must have turned right

30:03after this

30:05Stitch um that's the first one I worked

30:08after slipping so I'll have to work all

30:11the way to here before doing my next

30:14increase and then turning again

30:28two three four so one

30:31more and one more right leaning lifted

30:37increase one

30:39more um knit stitch and I'm going to

30:45secure the yarn and do the same on the

30:48other side so

30:51Pearl after turning and securing the

30:53yarn Pearl to four stitches before the

30:56previous turn easy to tell with Japanese

30:59short rows when I pull the bobby pin

31:02immediately shows me what the last two

31:04stitches are so two more all the way to

31:10here and after that we just repeat the

31:13last a set of short rows two more times

31:16so you'll end up

31:18with with four little if you're doing

31:21Japanese short rows you'll end up with

31:23four bobby pins or locking Stitch

31:25markers on each side

31:28and I'll come back when I'm there to

31:31show you how we conceal the

31:36gaps so here we are probably one of the

31:40trickiest rounds in the whole sock I

31:43have just finished my last turn on the

31:45wrong side I have trapped the yarn and a

31:49knit one stitch and it says to now knit

31:52all the way to two stitches before this

31:56marker here at the same time closing all

31:59the short R gaps so I

32:02have uh four turns here so four

32:06potential gaps that I need to close and

32:09let's get doing

32:20that it will of course depend on your

32:23short row method so this is for those

32:26who are doing Japanese short rows

32:28I work to the

32:31turn use the bobby

32:34pin Loop place it on the

32:38needle and knit two

32:41together with the next

32:44Stitch and I do that for all of these

33:17and here I am two stitches before that's

33:21okay there's one more short row to close

33:23but we can do that in a minute and I

33:26have to place a new marker here this

33:29will be important for the heel

33:31flap and knit two more stitches and

33:34obviously because there is another Gap I

33:37should close it at the same

33:44time those are my two stitches and it

33:47says to remove the previous marker so it

33:51doesn't um mess with our heads and then

33:55it says to pick up the contrast color

33:59which should be just right

34:02here I was wrong I do need it for a

34:05little

34:06bit and to with both colors work the

34:11same chart row that we did just before

34:14starting uh the short rows which you

34:17should have noted after the last round

34:19of of the gusset

34:22increases and with the second Stitch of

34:26the pattern repeat

34:29um that will

34:35be no that's main color for

34:38me it will be individual because it

34:41depends on uh where you started the the

34:45gusset which side you're

34:48working

34:50Etc but I am at the beginning of round

34:53now and the next step is to work across

34:59these stitches with both colors when we

35:02get here so it will the the Stitch count

35:05specified in the pattern and it's

35:07depends on the size then we will cut the

35:11contrast

35:12color and continue back and forth across

35:15the heel flap in just the main color um

35:18we'll also be working this little

35:20section here in main color and that will

35:23be different from what we just done here

35:26but that's okay because while we're

35:29working on the heel

35:30flap we will be um working these

35:35stitches together with this side that

35:39will grow of the heel flap so you won't

35:42actually see this row uh the next row

35:46here it doesn't matter what color yarn

35:49we

35:50use and I'll come back once I'm here to

35:54set up the heel flap

35:57[Music]

35:59so I have worked across the first the

36:01top of the sock to where I needed to cut

36:05the contrast color I've cut it and I'm

36:09going to continue um across the rest of

36:15uh the foot and gusset and we will be

36:20removing this marker replacing it two

36:23stitches later and closing all these

36:26short row gaps

36:28uh on our

36:29way so as I said we'll continue with

36:33just the main

36:35color

36:37and the first part is easy getting to

36:40the marker

36:57now I will no longer need it

37:00here I'll need it two stitches later but

37:03because I have a short row turn there uh

37:08I need to conceal the Gap and because

37:11I'm approaching from the other direction

37:14the concealing of the Gap in this case

37:16is a little different I have to stop one

37:18stitch before the turn here's where the

37:21turn was slip it as if to knit because

37:25we'll be doing kind of an ssk on this

37:29and theoretically I should be placing

37:32this loop on here on this needle because

37:35it's really tight and really hard to do

37:38we'll do an alternative way so I'll just

37:40knit through

37:43it and then pass the slip stitch

37:47over so it has the same effect as an

37:51SS I'll knit one more

37:54Stitch before replacing the marker for

37:57the the heel

37:59flap and I can actually remove

38:04[Music]

38:05this and I will continue across to the

38:09next marker closing all the other short

38:13row caps again slip as if to

38:17knit knit through this Loop

38:28pass the SLI Stitch

38:31over and remove the bobby

38:38[Music]

38:41pin slip as if to

38:45knit knit through the

38:49loop pass the slip stitch

38:52over oh gosh this is just plenty yarn

38:56and I've got sharp kn

38:59needles we got one more to

39:02do if you are doing Japanese short rows

39:06for the first time um this is the most

39:09complicated way to conceal the short row

39:12Gap but it also has the the most

39:14seamless um uh result in this instance

39:18where you're approaching to return um

39:20working back in the round uh but it is

39:24kind of unintuitive where you need to

39:26stop before you start it so just one

39:28stitch before the turn is

39:32here slip as if to

39:36knit knit through this little

39:42Loop and pass the slip stitch

39:46over and we might need to tug on this

39:49working yarn a little bit to really keep

39:52it all tight and avoid any holes forming

39:56or the stitches stretching

39:58but it should look something like now

40:00these little holes here are from the

40:02lifted increases it's got nothing to do

40:04with the uh with the short

40:08rows so I am working all the way to the

40:13second marker

40:26[Music]

40:37slipping the marker and doing my first

40:42ssk

40:45so this will make the heel flap that I

40:48will be working back and forth and I

40:52will be decreasing these stitches along

40:53the side here until we have return back

40:58to the original Stitch count and we can

41:02return back to work the leg in the

41:09round and here we are going to set up

41:12the honeycomb Brios for the heel flap on

41:14the wrong side we start by slipping the

41:18first Stitch and slipping the marker

41:21with the yarn in front it's what we'll

41:23always do and then the rest of the

41:25instruction depends on on your sides you

41:29might need to start with pearling one

41:31and then pearling two together uh just

41:34check the instructions but basically we

41:36Pearl two

41:38together at some

41:40point and then slip one with yarn over

41:44that's the Brio part again Pearl two

41:49together slip one with yarn

41:52[Music]

41:54over for two together

41:59slip one with yarn

42:02over etc

42:04etc so the slip one with yarn over is

42:09basically I'm doing a yarn over bringing

42:12the yarn to the front and slipping but

42:15it it's easier to do it at the same time

42:18so bring the yarn to front and slip it

42:22and then the yarn ends up at the

42:25back and I'm going to do that all the

42:28way to the marker and we'll see what we

42:31do next from

42:33there now because the honey combos

42:36requires a certain Stitch

42:38count and for some of the sizes there's

42:42a stitch left over or Stitch missing I

42:46have tried to adjust that by just adding

42:49a simple knit or pearl stitch it might

42:52be on both sides or it might be nowhere

42:54but for my size it is here at the end I

42:58had to Pearl one to get to the marker

43:00and then when we slip marker uh on the

43:03right side we do an ssk to decrease the

43:07side uh stitches here on the wrong side

43:11we'll simply Pearl two

43:14together and it will have a

43:17symmetrical decrease line going

43:21across here the same way that it does

43:24here on this side

43:27[Music]

43:31and now we are on the right side again

43:35so we have to slip the first Stitch with

43:38a yarn at the back this time slip the

43:40marker and we knit well H my size size

43:45to knit that Stitch that was pearled

43:48there but as soon as you see a yarn over

43:52and a stitch under it you have to kind

43:56of go under there and knit that

44:18one and then slip the yarn over again

44:25knit knit the Stitch under the yarn over

44:29and slip the yarn over with yarn at the

44:32back again knit that one that was knit

44:37Pearl two together knit the Stitch under

44:40the yarn over slip the yarn over knit

44:44knit

44:46slip knit knit

44:51slip

44:55knit knit

44:59slip knit knit

45:12[Music]

45:15slip and for my size I have one stitch

45:18left over here that I knit I slip the

45:21marker and again

45:24ssk to reduce the side stitches

45:31[Music]

45:33here now I'll turn around and I'll do

45:37the next

45:39row of

45:41prios on the wrong side but we always

45:44slip the first Stitch and

45:47marker and now I've got

45:51to slip one with yarn over well depend

45:54on your size what you do first here just

45:57follow the instructions but eventually

45:59you'll have to slip one with yarn over

46:02and Brios

46:05knit the next two one of them should be

46:08that previously slipped yarn over again

46:11slip one with yarn over and Brios knit

46:16doesn't matter that we are on the wrong

46:17side for this stitch pattern we need to

46:20Brios

46:22knit slit one with yarn over Bri knit

46:27slip one with yarn over Bri

46:30knit all the

46:32way to the

46:35marker or just before the marker

46:37depending on your

46:51size and for me I have to just Pearl the

46:55last Stitch

46:57and as usual do a decrease after that

47:02marker in this case Pearl two

47:06together something's starting to form

47:10[Music]

47:14here and row

47:17five of this heel flap again starting

47:21with slipping the first stitch in the

47:24marker here I will have

47:28to knit three well that's just for my

47:31size but I knit all the way up to the

47:33yarn over which again I slip knit all

47:37the stitches to the yarn over slip the

47:40yarn over

47:58[Music]

48:13[Music]

48:17finishing with a

48:22decrease and turning work again

48:27and this time we'll be repeating the

48:30same as row four except we'll probably

48:33we'll start

48:34with the Burk instead of the slip one

48:38with yarn over every other wrong side

48:41Row the the stitches will be swapped

48:44which is which which is what makes the V

48:47pattern so I'm slipping the one without

48:50the yarn over with yarn over oh did I

48:53just make a mistake

48:58supposed to Brios knit this and then

49:01slip with yarn over Brios knit slip with

49:04your yarn over Brios knit slip with yarn

49:07over Brios

49:08knit and we we can start to see the

49:13honeycomb

49:14pattern and we'll be repeating the last

49:16four rows for the specified number of

49:19times uh that's for your size in the

49:21pattern and once I got there I'll return

49:25and we'll continue

49:30and now I have finished all of those

49:33heel flap rows and repeats and I am on

49:37the

49:38last I have just turned from Wrong Side

49:42to right side I'm ready to do the last

49:45uh heel flap row with main color

49:49slipping first Stitch and the marker and

49:53nothing really changes here I'm knitting

49:55them um

49:58as nothing changes here I'm knitting the

50:02knit stitches and slipping the yarn over

50:05as

50:10[Music]

50:11before but this is the last time we'll

50:15be doing that

50:22here all the way to the marker

50:38I will no longer need this marker here

50:40so I can remove it and I'm also doing my

50:43last decrease on this

50:49side and we are at the beginning of the

50:54round as my marker

51:01indicates and I'm ready to go back

51:04working in the round and for that I will

51:07need two colors and continue the color

51:11work chart with your specified

51:16stitch for me that is uh Stitch number

51:21one as I'm working on size

51:23two and that means I need to begin with

51:28contrast

51:35color so I'm rejoining it here as I did

51:40at the

51:41InStep and I will work three stitches in

51:44contrast

51:46color and then one stitch in main color

51:53[Music]

51:57all the

52:01way to just two stitches before the

52:04marker so if you are working on uh

52:07circular needles you won't have an issue

52:10here but because I've got dpns I will

52:14need to um make sure that both of these

52:17are on the same needle as I will be

52:19doing the last decrease on this side

52:22there but I'll I'll show you what that

52:25looks like when I get there and I'm here

52:29that is two

52:30stitches before the marker a and because

52:35I need to work two stitches together and

52:38then remove marker I better get both of

52:41these stitches on the same

52:45needle and I already know I won't need

52:48the marker so I don't want to be

52:53swinging around there I'll just remove

52:55it now and I have to figure out which

52:59color I need to use and the pattern says

53:02use the next color uh in this row

53:06according to the chart for me that

53:08happens to be main

53:11color but that will depend entire

53:14entirely on which chart row you're at

53:17and which uh size you're knitting so

53:20just follow follow the chart as if you

53:24would simply need the next Stitch and

53:26then work across the rest of the heel

53:30flap

53:32stitches uh as if they were normal

53:35stitches so here we go I need to work

53:38three stitches simply knit the yarn

53:42overs three stitches in contrast color

53:45one stitch in main

53:51color and we are

53:54returning to

53:56the

53:59chart uh all over or across the full

54:06circumference of the sock

54:22here and after this round we should

54:25really check our Stitch count should be

54:28back to the original Stitch count for

54:31the hole of foot for the entire foot

54:35circumference that we had before the

54:37gasset and if that's not the case then

54:41there is something

54:44off it looks like I have made a mistake

54:47somewhere because I'm ending up with an

54:49extra Stitch yes I instead of working

54:53three contrast color stitches here I

54:55worked just too but that's easy to fix I

54:59won't bore you with that but basically

55:02we should

55:03end here and uh be at the beginning of

55:08round completing that uh lost chart

55:12repeat to begin again with the Stitch

55:15that was specified for your

55:18[Music]

55:19size and then we just continueing the

55:22round uh following the chart through the

55:24next chart rows and starting from chart

55:27r one um um to our desired length uh of

55:32the leg and when I've got in there I'll

55:35show you what it looks like to get the

55:39uh cuff

55:43started so I think I've come to a length

55:47that I like to end the leg here to be an

55:51ankle sock and I'm ready to start the

55:55ribbing for the cff

55:57and uh that means I'll be just working

55:59in the main color and I won't need the

56:01contrast color anymore so I can break

56:04that off and according to the pattern uh

56:08we are to work in Twisted rib um but of

56:12course that's entirely um up to you how

56:15you do the cuff you could do one by one

56:18or 2 by two or whatever other rib could

56:22be a good idea to add a simple round of

56:25uh simp Le knit round um before starting

56:29the rib uh because that will prevent any

56:34contrast color stitches being pearled

56:38and then showing up as a a bump in

56:41contrast color that can

56:46um well what am I saying that can cause

56:50a an effect or or a look that is less

56:54tidy so this is is a work around for

56:58[Music]

57:00that and now that I've done my one round

57:03in main color I can begin the rib and I

57:07will start with a knit through the back

57:10Loop and Pearl and this these are the

57:14two stitches that I will repeat all

57:17around knitting through the back Loop

57:20and

57:23pearling this uh kind of rib is isn't as

57:27stretchy as the classical rib but I

57:31prefer um the look of this one because

57:34it looks a lot tidier and neater the

57:37stitches are more uh compact so to

57:42speak

57:43and it just fits the the look of this

57:47sock in my opinion a bit better because

57:49there's also it creates little

57:53V's a line of v's and I think they go

57:57very well with the v's that we see in

57:59the

58:00heel and I will continue working uh the

58:04knit to the back Loop pearl one uh for

58:08um for as many rounds uh as I need to

58:11get to my desired cuff uh length and

58:14I'll come back and we'll start on the

58:18jubiler bind

58:22off I've got my cuff to the height that

58:27I am happy with and I am ready to set up

58:30the tuer bind off uh there are a couple

58:34of setup rounds before um using a

58:37tapestry needle and and doing the

58:39tubular bind of steps and those are to

58:43basically create like a little little

58:46tube at the top um because what tubular

58:49bind of really is is a Kitchener Stitch

58:52that is or or our grafting Stitch that

58:56that is uh

58:58assuming that um the all the knit

59:02stitches uh are creating the fabric on

59:07the outside and all the Pearl stitches

59:09are creating a piece of fabric on the

59:12inside and then they are joined at the

59:14top and that creates a little tube like

59:18a double knit tube just really like the

59:21look of it and the stretchiness of it so

59:24that's why I like using it in toe up

59:26socks whenever there's a 1ex one rib

59:29pattern uh it's a little bit trickier to

59:31apply the tubular Vino for 2 by two we

59:33will only be

59:35working uh every one of two stitches uh

59:39and we'll be slipping the other one in

59:42the first round and in the second round

59:44we'll be slipping the ones that we

59:45worked and working the ones that we

59:48slipped um so that to create that little

59:51double knit row and you can either go

59:54and knit them

59:56as you would and then slip with yarn in

1:00:00front knit and slip and yarn in front um

1:00:04a little more advanced would be to

1:00:08instead knit the stitches through the

1:00:11back loop as that's how we work the rest

1:00:14of the ribbing so that's what I am going

1:00:16to do in this version for me knit the

1:00:19Stitch through the back

1:00:20Loop and then slip the next Stitch the

1:00:24pearl stitch with the yarn and front

1:00:27again knit through the back Loop slip

1:00:31with the yarn in front and I need to do

1:00:34this all the way

1:00:39around and when I get to the beginning

1:00:41of round I'll come back and show you

1:00:44what we do next I'm back at the start of

1:00:47the round I've just worked all these

1:00:50knit stitches and now it's turn to work

1:00:53the Pearl stitches so this time I'll be

1:00:55slipping the it stitches with a yarn in

1:00:58back and then pearling that Stitch that

1:01:01I slipped in previous round again

1:01:04slipping with a yarn in back

1:01:07[Music]

1:01:08pearling slipping with a yarn in back

1:01:11and pearling and

1:01:13again um I have to do that all the way

1:01:16around and that's when we can start the

1:01:19tubular bind off to do the tubular bind

1:01:23off we will need a tapestry needle

1:01:26and we will need uh the yarn tail to be

1:01:32something around three times longer than

1:01:37the length we need to bind off so here's

1:01:42one two and

1:01:48three and We Begin by of

1:01:52course threading the yarn through the

1:01:55tapestry kn need because this is worked

1:01:59in the round I'm going to do an extra

1:02:01step at the start that I don't typically

1:02:05describe in the pattern but that's just

1:02:07something I do uh to keep it nice and

1:02:09joined in the

1:02:11round so uh for the first Stitch I will

1:02:16go in Pearl wise without slipping

1:02:19anything off the

1:02:21needle and I will go through the second

1:02:24Stitch

1:02:27knitwise so I need to get in here to be

1:02:31able to to do it knitwise and again that

1:02:35these two are just to set it

1:02:38up and then we begin a cycle of steps a

1:02:43set of steps that we'll just be

1:02:45repeating all the way around and I'll

1:02:48demonstrate the first step so we we the

1:02:52first step starts with a knit stitch and

1:02:55and we go into the knit stitch

1:02:59knitwise at the same time slipping it

1:03:02off the needle we find the next knit

1:03:05stitch which is the third Stitch and we

1:03:07go into that Pearl wise and that's when

1:03:10we pull the yarn we shouldn't pull too

1:03:14tight but we also shouldn't leave it too

1:03:16loose it should relatively look the same

1:03:20the the leg that forms here should look

1:03:22the same length as the rest of the legs

1:03:26of the stitches so that was step one we

1:03:28went into knit stitch knitwise and the

1:03:31other knit stitch PE wise now we have to

1:03:34deal with the pearl

1:03:36stitch that is here on the

1:03:39needle should look like a pearl stitch

1:03:42and we go in the pearl stitch Pearl

1:03:46wise slip it off find the next pearl

1:03:50stitch that will be now this Stitch here

1:03:53behind the knit stitch and go in it

1:03:57knitwise and then we pull the

1:04:02yarn always start the first step on well

1:04:07it depends on how you work the ribbing

1:04:09and where you are but if you're facing

1:04:11the knit stitch first go in knitwise

1:04:15slip it off and pearl wise

1:04:26and if you facing a pearl stitch first

1:04:29go in Pearl wise slip it off and then

1:04:33the knitwise like

1:04:41so try try and move it closer to the

1:04:46camera cuz this is a tiny tiny gauge so

1:04:51knitwise slip off Pearl wise

1:05:00and pearl wise slip it off find that

1:05:05second

1:05:07Stitch and go in it

1:05:11knitwise leaving all the

1:05:17needle and we do that all the way around

1:05:20we're creating a little nice round

1:05:23stretchy Edge if the if you you have uh

1:05:27this the legs of these top stitches all

1:05:30over the place it might be that you're

1:05:32either leaving it too loose and you need

1:05:35to tug a bit more or you're you're

1:05:37pulling too hard and it's pushing other

1:05:40legs out of place so it's a fine balance

1:05:43to find but with with a lot of practice

1:05:46I am I am confident you can find um the

1:05:51tension that will look nice and Polished

1:05:55and here here's a quick tip for those

1:05:56working on double pointed needles so

1:05:59when you get to the last two stitches of

1:06:03one needle uh you can't really execute

1:06:06the steps fully so I suggest and that's

1:06:10what I like to do is just transferring

1:06:13both of them to be the first two

1:06:16stitches of the next needle and then you

1:06:19can carry

1:06:20on as before

1:06:37uh once I've moved all the way around

1:06:40I'll come back and show you how to join

1:06:43uh in the round and we'll have a

1:06:47finished soak I've reached the last two

1:06:50stitches on my last needle and I would

1:06:53typically just get rid of them by

1:06:56slipping um off knitwise and then Pearl

1:06:59wise but because I want it to join

1:07:02seamlessly as possible to be in the

1:07:05round what I typically do is I repick up

1:07:09the stitches that I already slipped off

1:07:12so in this

1:07:13case I need to pick up again that one

1:07:18knit stitch and this one pearl stitch

1:07:24here and

1:07:26then I can do the two steps One Last

1:07:39[Music]

1:07:45Time tricky

1:07:49that and simply pull out the

1:07:51needle

1:07:53and you can see see that it's pretty

1:07:57seamless here and the round and the my

1:08:03one of my most favorite things about the

1:08:04tubular Bindu is I can go ahead and

1:08:08weave in the end right away I don't need

1:08:12to look for a tapestry needle or wait

1:08:15for that um inspiration to even ends to

1:08:20come I just do it here right

1:08:24away and and I am done and my sock looks

1:08:29really nice and

1:08:32Polished I hope this video was useful

1:08:35and if you end up making a pair and

1:08:38sharing them on socials please tag me

1:08:40cuz I cannot wait to see your Creations

1:08:43I'll see you in the next one