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Why Do Wellness Influencers Hate Sunscreen?

Healthcare Triage · 1,433 words · 7 min read

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0:00Do you know what's most fascinating about tanning?

0:02Our skin is literally changing its biology because it's been exposed to

0:06ultraviolet radiation.

0:07And somehow we decided that this was a beauty treatment.

0:10That's the topic of this week's Healthcare Triage

0:18First things first.

0:20Tans are not safe.

0:21The tan is your skin's protective response to ultraviolet radiation exposure.

0:25And before you yell, thanks, Captain Obvious.

0:28Hear me out.

0:28in the American Academy of Dermatology 2026 Practice Safe Sun survey,

0:33about 52% of respondents believed at least one tanning myth.

0:3729% said tanning is safe if you don't burn, and 19% said

0:42a base tan can prevent sunburn or reduce the risk of skin cancer.

0:46That first one is especially interesting because burning is not a prerequisite

0:51for UV damage.

0:52Ultraviolet radiation can damage DNA and skin cells

0:55without getting to the point of a sunburn, and exposure to UV

0:59radiation is associated with several skin cancers, and this may or

1:02may not surprise you, but indoor tanning does not get a special exemption here.

1:06Both ultraviolet radiation from the sun and artificial sources

1:10such as tanning beds and sun lamps have been classified as known carcinogens.

1:15Indoor tanning equipment can emit UVA and UVB radiation

1:19in amounts similar to sunlight, and in some cases, stronger than sunlight.

1:23Indoor tanning is associated with melanoma and non melanoma skin

1:27cancers, with an estimated 58% increased risk of squamous cell

1:32carcinoma and a 24% increased risk of basal cell carcinoma.

1:36Among indoor tanners, using indoor tanning beds before age 20

1:40has been associated with a large increase in the risk of developing

1:44melanoma, with data suggesting that risk increases with each use.

1:48And yes, this applies even if you never burn.

1:51Indoor tanning has declined over the years,

1:53which is good news, but it hasn't disappeared.

1:55The AAD estimates that approximately 7.8 million adults

1:59in the United States still engage in indoor tanning,

2:02and according to 2018 data, about a quarter of U.S.

2:05adults who reported any indoor

2:07tanning said they had tanned 25 or more times in a year.

2:11So if tanning is a problem, what about sunscreen?

2:14Sunscreen has somehow become one of the most misunderstood products in medicine.

2:18There are people online claiming sunscreen is toxic, unnecessary,

2:22causes cancer, interferes with vitamin D, or is basically a chemical conspiracy

2:27between big lotion and the dermatology industrial complex.

2:31And there are people who seem to think sunscreen is magical armor that allows you

2:35to lie on a beach for eight consecutive hours without consequences.

2:39Neither approach is particularly useful.

2:41Let's start with the big one.

2:43Does sunscreen cause cancer?

2:45No. There's no evidence that sunscreen itself causes cancer.

2:48There have been, recalls

2:50a particular sunscreen products because of contamination with benzene.

2:53But benzene is not normally an ingredient in sunscreen.

2:56There are various legitimate questions about individual sunscreen

3:00ingredients and about how different formulations behave.

3:03Importantly, concerns about hormone disruption

3:06have largely come from laboratory or animal research involving high

3:10concentrations, and there's not currently any definitive evidence

3:14establishing that sunscreen ingredients cause hormone disruption in humans.

3:17Some sunscreen ingredients can,

3:19however, cause skin irritation or allergic reactions in some people.

3:23sunscreens also aren't all the same.

3:25Chemical sunscreens use active ingredients that absorb UV radiation.

3:29Mineral sunscreens use ingredients such as zinc oxide or titanium dioxide.

3:34Hybrid products combine approaches.

3:37Different formulations have different characteristics,

3:40So if you're standing in the sunscreen aisle staring at approximately 47 bottles

3:43that all appear to be making the same promise.

3:45Practical advice is to look for broad spectrum protection, meaning protection

3:50against both UVA and UVB and an SPF of at least 30.

3:54And speaking of SPF,

3:56that's another thing about sunscreen that is largely misunderstood.

3:59SPF numbers are not linear.

4:02SPF 15 blocks about 93% of UV radiation, SPF

4:0730 blocks about 97%, and SPF 50 blocks about 98%.

4:13So SPF 50 is not literally twice as protective as SPF 25,

4:17and SPF 100 is not a magical force field And perhaps the biggest catch?

4:21That SPF protection depends heavily on applying the product.

4:25In the same amount that was used on testing.

4:28A sunscreens SPF is measured

4:30using about two milligrams of product per square centimeter of skin.

4:34For an adult, that can translate to roughly an ounce of sunscreen

4:38to cover the exposed body.

4:39Studies have found that people in real life apply substantially less than that.

4:43So if your strategy is to put three microscopic dots of sunscreen

4:47on your forehead, rub them around until your skin looks

4:50approximately moisturized and declare victory.

4:52You may be in trouble.

4:54Also, sunscreen has to be reapplied.

4:56Not because sunscreen companies are trying to bankrupt you

4:59through lotion consumption,

5:01but because sunscreen can be removed by swimming, sweating and friction.

5:05And protection does not last all day with the single application.

5:08In fact, you should be reapplying approximately every two hours.

5:12But even more than that if you're swimming or sweating a lot.

5:14Which brings me to this shocking news.

5:17Waterproof sunscreen does not exist.

5:20Water resistant sunscreen does.

5:23Products labeled water resistant are tested for either 40

5:26or 80 minutes during swimming or sweating, depending on the product.

5:30After that, you got to reapply.

5:31Yet another myth is that sunscreen is only necessary when it's hot and sunny.

5:36Unfortunately, UV radiation does not care whether you're enjoying a 95 degree

5:41beach day or standing outside in a fleece jacket

5:43wondering why you voluntarily live somewhere with winter.

5:46Clouds can reduce some UVB, but do not eliminate UV

5:50exposure, and snow can even reflect UV radiation.

5:53Higher elevations can also increase UV exposure.

5:57Now let's chat about skin tone.

5:59Because another sunscreen myth is the people with darker

6:01skin don’t need it Melanin provides some natural protection

6:05against UV radiation, but darker skin does not make someone immune

6:08to sunburn, skin cancer, or other effects of UV exposure.

6:12And there's another argument

6:13you may have heard if I were sunscreen, how will I get enough vitamin D?

6:18This one requires a little nuance.

6:19While UVB exposure helps the body make vitamin D data,

6:24do not support deliberately sunbathing as a strategy for maintaining

6:27levels, particularly given the trade off with cancer risk.

6:31Adequate vitamin D can be obtained through diet, so you don't have to choose

6:35between protect my skin and have vitamin D, you can just eat food.

6:39And note that regular sunscreen

6:40use does not appear to eliminate vitamin D production in real world use anyway.

6:44sunscreen is important,

6:45but it shouldn't be treated as the primary or only method of UV protection.

6:49Sunscreen use does not block all UV radiation.

6:52It works best alongside shade, protective

6:56clothing, and avoiding excessive UV exposure.

6:59The goal should never be to figure out which sunscreen allows you

7:02to spend the maximum possible amount of time in the sun.

7:05The goal is to reduce your UV exposure while still allowing you to,

7:09you know, go outside and be a human being.

7:11And sunscreen isn't just about cancer, even though that's the larger concern UV

7:15exposure also contributes to premature skin aging and other skin damage.

7:19Which brings us back to that tan.

7:22Tan can look good to you.

7:23I'm not going to pretend

7:24humans don't have aesthetic preferences, but biologically, a ten

7:28is a response to UV exposure, and deliberately tanning

7:31means deliberately exposing your skin to UV radiation.

7:34There is no special category of safe tanning that happens because you're young,

7:39or because you don't burn, or because you got a base tan first,

7:42or because the UV came from a tanning bed instead of the sun.

7:46You can go to the beach, you can hike, you can garden, and you can ski.

7:50But don't confuse

7:50enjoying the outdoors with deliberately maximizing your UV exposure.

7:55Don't assume that a tan means your skin is protected,

7:57that a lack of sunburn means

7:58there was no damage, or that sunscreen gives you permission to

8:01stay in the sun indefinitely

8:03Use broad spectrum sunscreen.

8:05Apply enough of it. Reapply it.

8:07Wear a hat, find some shade, and stay out of the tanning beds.

8:11Hey, do you like this episode

8:12you might enjoy this previous episode on Does Sunscreen Need Safety Evaluation?

8:17We'd appreciate it if you'd like the video and subscribe to the channel down below.

8:20Really go do it.

8:22Maybe go on over to Patreon.com/HealthcareTriage

8:25where you can help support the show and make it bigger and better.

8:28We'd like to thank our research associates Edward Liljeholm

8:31and Christopher Learn and of course our Surgeon Admiral, Sam.

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