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Why Don’t We Eat Bulls?

Habit Lantern · 2,642 words · 13 min read

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0:00Look at the meat counter the next time

0:01you're in a store. Really look. Ribeye,

0:05sirloin, brisket, ground beef.

0:09All of it came from cattle, and roughly

0:11half of all cattle born on this planet

0:13are male. So, the math should be simple.

0:15Half of that meat should come from

0:17bulls. It doesn't. Almost none of it

0:20does. In your entire life, you have

0:22probably never sat down and eaten a bull

0:24steak. Not once. Millions of male calves

0:27are born every year. And almost none of

0:30them will ever become a bull. Something

0:32happens to them first. It happens in the

0:34first few weeks of life, and it has been

0:36happening quietly for thousands of

0:39years. Most people assume the reason is

0:42obvious. Bull meat must be bad, tough,

0:46wild, not worth the trouble. That's not

0:49quite right. Because bulls actually grow

0:51faster than the animals we do eat. They

0:53build more muscle. They waste less food.

0:56On paper, the bull wins. Scientists have

0:59a name for what goes wrong instead. They

1:01call it dark cutting. And that's only

1:03the first layer of this story. Because

1:05the real reason we stopped eating bulls

1:07has almost nothing to do with flavor.

1:09Stay till the end. Because whatever we

1:11did to the bull, something already did

1:13it to you. And the evidence is sitting

1:15on your face right now. Let's start with

1:17the part nobody thinks about. The

1:19missing males. A cow can carry one calf

1:22a year. A bull can father hundreds. So,

1:25in any herd, you don't need many males.

1:28One bull can cover 25 to 30 cows in a

1:30single breeding season. That's it.

1:32That's the whole job. Which means the

1:34moment humans started keeping cattle, a

1:37problem appeared. Nature keeps producing

1:39males at 50%. But, the farm only needs

1:42about 4%. Every year, a flood of male

1:45calves arrives that nobody has a use

1:47for. Too many to breed with, too

1:50dangerous to keep, too valuable to

1:52waste. So, humans invented a solution.

1:55And it's one of the oldest pieces of

1:56technology we have. Older than the wheel

1:59in some places, older than writing. We

2:01cut them. Castration. Ancient Egyptians

2:04carved scenes of it into tomb walls.

2:07Sumerian records describe it.

2:09Archaeologists find cattle bones

2:11thousands of years old with the telltale

2:13shape of an animal that lost its

2:15testosterone young.

2:17And the moment you remove testosterone

2:19from a young male calf, you don't just

2:22make him infertile. You make him a

2:24different animal. He grows longer in the

2:26leg. He stays calm. He stops fighting.

2:29He stops mounting the animals around

2:31him. He becomes something humans had

2:33never had before. A large, powerful

2:36animal that will stand still while you

2:38tie a plow to it.

2:40That animal is called an ox.

2:43And an ox is just a bull with the anger

2:46removed.

2:47For most of human history, that ox was

2:49the engine of civilization. It pulled

2:52the plow that fed the city. It hauled

2:55the stone that built the temple. Entire

2:57empires ran on castrated males.

3:00When we did it for meat instead of

3:02muscle, we gave that animal a different

3:04name.

3:05A steer.

3:07And today, almost every piece of beef

3:09you have ever eaten came from a steer.

3:12Or from a female.

3:13Not a bull. But here's what's

3:15fascinating. From a pure business point

3:17of view, this makes no sense. Because

3:19the bull is the better animal. In 1971,

3:23an animal scientist named R. A. Field

3:25pulled together decades of research

3:27comparing bulls and steers. The numbers

3:30were not close. Intact bulls grew

3:32faster. They converted feed into muscle

3:34more efficiently. They produced heavier

3:37carcasses with more lean meat on them.

3:39Testosterone is quite literally a growth

3:42drug. It's the reason athletes cheat

3:44with it. It builds muscle and burns fat.

3:48So, a bull turns grain into meat better

3:50than a steer does.

3:52More meat, less feed, less time. Which

3:55raises an obvious question. If the bull

3:58is cheaper to raise and gives you more

4:00meat, why did we spend 5,000 years

4:02cutting them instead?

4:04The answer isn't in the animal, it's in

4:06what happens to the meat after the

4:08animal is gone.

4:10And this is where it gets strange. Meat

4:12is not just muscle. Meat is muscle that

4:15has died in a very specific way.

4:17When a living muscle stops receiving

4:19oxygen, it doesn't just switch off. It

4:22keeps working for a while, burning a

4:24stored sugar called glycogen.

4:27And burning glycogen produces lactic

4:29acid. That acid is the whole secret. It

4:32drops the pH of the meat. It turns the

4:35muscle bright red.

4:36It makes it tender. It makes it keep.

4:40Without that acid, you don't get beef.

4:42You get something else. Now, think about

4:44what a bull does in the hours before

4:46that moment. He's loaded onto a truck

4:48with strange males he has never met.

4:50Testosterone does exactly what

4:52testosterone does. He fights. He paces.

4:56He mounts. He bellows. He refuses to

4:58settle. And every minute of that burns

5:01through his glycogen. So, when the

5:03muscle finally goes quiet, there's

5:05nothing left to burn. Barely any acid

5:08forms. The pH stays high, and the meat

5:11that comes out is dark, not red, not

5:13pink, almost purple black. It's firm.

5:17It's dry.

5:18It's sticky to the touch.

5:20Butchers have called it dark cutting

5:22beef for over a century.

5:24Scientists call it dark firm dry meat.

5:28And it is a disaster.

5:30The color alone makes it unsellable. But

5:32it's worse than that. Without the acid,

5:35bacteria have nothing holding them back.

5:37Dark cutting meat spoils faster. And the

5:40flavor goes flat and strange.

5:42Bulls don't get this every time. But

5:44they get it far more often than steers

5:46do, especially when unfamiliar males are

5:48mixed together right before the end. And

5:51that's only half the story.

5:52Because testosterone was already ruining

5:54the meat long before that day.

5:56Remember, testosterone builds lean

5:58muscle and burns fat. That sounds great

6:00until you remember what you actually

6:02want in a steak.

6:03You want marbling, those thin white

6:05threads of fat running through the

6:07muscle. That fat is the flavor. That fat

6:10is the juice. That fat is the

6:11tenderness. A bull barely makes any.

6:15Testosterone tells the body to skip it.

6:17Then there's the connective tissue.

6:19Every muscle is wrapped in collagen. In

6:22a young animal, collagen is soft and

6:24melts when you cook it.

6:26As the animal ages, that collagen forms

6:28chemical cross-links. It stops melting.

6:31It turns to rope. And testosterone

6:33drives the bull to build more of it

6:35faster in a heavier working body. So,

6:38you end up with dark meat, no marbling,

6:41and muscle held together like rope.

6:44The United States government decided

6:45this was not a matter of opinion. Under

6:47USDA rules, beef is sorted by sex before

6:50anyone tastes anything. Steer,

6:53heifer, cow, bullock,

6:56bull.

6:58A bullock is a young male under about 24

7:00months. He can still be graded.

7:03But a mature bull carcass cannot receive

7:05a USDA quality grade at all. Not prime,

7:09not choice,

7:10not even select.

7:12The system doesn't rate him poorly. The

7:14system refuses to rate him. So, what did

7:17they actually do with all those bulls?

7:19Hold that thought. Because there's a

7:20second reason, and it has nothing to do

7:22with eating. It has to do with staying

7:24alive. A mature bull can weigh over a

7:26thousand kilograms. That is roughly the

7:29weight of a small car with a brain that

7:31has been selected for one purpose,

7:33winning fights with other males. Farmers

7:35have known this forever.

7:37In the United States, cattle kill around

7:3920 people a year. Not wolves, not bears.

7:43Cattle. When the CDC reviewed

7:45cattle-related deaths across four states

7:47over five years, it found 21 people

7:50killed. Crushed against walls, knocked

7:52down and trampled, struck from behind.

7:55And bulls showed up in those deaths far

7:57out of proportion to how few bulls there

7:59are. Because a bull doesn't need to hate

8:01you, he just needs to turn around. Now

8:03multiply that by a feedlot holding

8:05thousands of animals. Bulls fight each

8:07other constantly, they injure each

8:09other, they bruise the meat, they damage

8:11the hides, they break fences that would

8:13hold any other animal. They need

8:15stronger pens, thicker gates, more

8:17space, more staff. So every economic

8:20advantage the bull had, the fighting

8:22takes back. He gives you more meat and

8:24then ruins it and might kill you on the

8:25way. The steer just eats and stands

8:28there. That's the trade. 5,000 years of

8:31farmers made the same choice in almost

8:33every culture without ever reading a

8:34single study. Remove the testosterone.

8:37Take the calmer animal. But now step

8:40back and look at what that choice

8:41actually did. Because it didn't just

8:43change individual animals, it changed

8:45the species.

8:47Every cow alive today descends from a

8:49wild animal called the aurochs.

8:52And the aurochs was not a cow.

8:54Bulls stood nearly 6 ft at the shoulder.

8:57Massive forward-curving horns. Lean,

9:00fast, dangerous.

9:03Julius Caesar wrote about them in the

9:05forests of Germany and said they feared

9:07nothing.

9:08Genetic studies suggest the entire

9:10domestication happened around 10 and 1/2

9:12thousand years ago in the Near East. And

9:15here's the part that stuns people. It

9:18may have started from as few as around

9:2080 wild females. 80 animals. Every

9:23steak, every glass of milk, every

9:25leather shoe traces back to a founding

9:27population smaller than a school class.

9:30From that tiny beginning, we reshaped

9:32them completely.

9:34We made them smaller.

9:35We made them fatter.

9:37We shrank their horns.

9:39We shrank their brains.

9:41And above all, we removed the

9:43aggression.

9:44Generation after generation, by deciding

9:46which males got to be fathers

9:48and which males got the knife.

9:51The last aurochs on Earth died in 1627

9:54in the Jaktorów Forest in Poland.

9:56The wild original is gone.

9:58What's left is the version we designed.

10:01The docile cow is not a natural thing.

10:04The docile cow is a human invention. And

10:07it might be the strangest part of all

10:08because the bulls didn't vanish. They

10:10multiplied.

10:12In the middle of the 20th century,

10:14artificial insemination changed

10:16everything. Suddenly, one bull didn't

10:18have to be near a cow to father her

10:19calf. He could father calves on another

10:21continent or in another decade. One

10:24elite Holstein bull named Toy Story

10:27produced over 2 million units of semen

10:30and fathered around half a million

10:32offspring across 50 countries.

10:34But the real story is a bull born in

10:371962 named Pawnee Farm Arlinda Chief.

10:42Chief was a champion.

10:44Everyone wanted his daughters. So,

10:46everyone used him. Then his sons were

10:49used. Then his grandsons.

10:53Today, researchers estimate that around

10:5414% of the entire genome of American

10:57Holstein dairy cattle traces back to

11:00that one animal, one bull. 14% of a

11:04nation's dairy herd. Then in 2016,

11:07scientists went looking through his DNA

11:10and they found something hiding in it. A

11:12single broken gene, a recessive mutation

11:15that kills an embryo before it is ever

11:17born. Harmless if you carry one copy,

11:20fatal if you inherit two. And because

11:23Chief was in everyone's pedigree, cows

11:25and bulls started meeting their own

11:27ancestor from both sides.

11:29Researchers estimated that this one

11:31hidden error caused around half a

11:33million failed pregnancies. Half a

11:36million calves that simply stopped.

11:38Hundreds of millions of dollars quietly

11:41gone.

11:42Nobody knew for 50 years. So, look at

11:44what we actually built. We took the bull

11:47off the plate and then we gave a handful

11:49of bulls more descendants than any land

11:51animal in history. Fewer bulls than

11:53ever. More bulls than ever. But, here's

11:56the part almost nobody knows. You have

11:59eaten a bull. Probably many times.

12:02Because all that lean, dark, tough bull

12:04meat doesn't get thrown away. It gets

12:07ground. Hamburger has to hit a target

12:09fat percentage. And the fatty trimmings

12:11from young steers are too fatty on their

12:14own. So, processors blend them with very

12:16lean meat. Lean meat from old cows. Lean

12:19meat from bulls. That's your burger.

12:22That's your meatball, your taco filling,

12:24your frozen patty, your hot dog, your

12:27sausage, your pet food. The bull didn't

12:30leave the food supply. He just lost his

12:33name. And it goes further than that.

12:35Because this whole rule is local. In

12:37Germany, most beef comes from young

12:39intact bulls. They call them Jungbullen.

12:42Italy does the same. So does much of

12:44Spain and France.

12:46The trick is age. Slaughter the male

12:49before about 2 years old, before the

12:51collagen hardens and the fighting really

12:53starts, and the problems mostly never

12:55arrive. You get more meat on less feed

13:00in less time. In Spain, after a bull

13:02fight, the bull is butchered and sold.

13:05Restaurants near the ring serve it. Bull

13:08tail stew

13:09is a delicacy.

13:11And across South Asia and much of

13:12Africa, a huge share of what people call

13:15beef has always come from working males

13:18at the end of their lives.

13:20So, the sentence we don't eat bulls was

13:22never a fact about biology.

13:25It was a fact about where you happened

13:27to be born,

13:28which brings us to the real question.

13:31Not why don't we eat bulls,

13:34but what happens to a species when you

13:36spend thousands of years removing its

13:37most aggressive males?

13:39Because we know the answer to that one.

13:42We can see it in the bones.

13:44Domesticated animals all drift the same

13:46direction. Smaller bodies, smaller

13:49teeth, shorter faces, smaller brains,

13:53softer skulls.

13:55Scientists call it the domestication

13:57syndrome.

13:59It's the physical signature of a species

14:01that stopped needing to fight.

14:03Now, here's the uncomfortable part. In

14:062014, a researcher named Robert Cieri

14:09and his colleagues measured over 1,400

14:12human skulls, ancient ones, recent ones,

14:16from all over the world. They were

14:18looking for change across the last

14:1980,000 years.

14:22And they found it. Human brow ridges

14:24shrank. Our faces got shorter, our

14:27skulls got rounder, our jaws got

14:29lighter. The heavy, hooded,

14:31aggressive-looking face of early humans

14:33softened into the face you see in the

14:34mirror. And the best explanation they

14:36could find for that pattern is a drop in

14:38the effects of testosterone, the exact

14:41same signature we see in every animal we

14:43tamed. Which means something tamed us.

14:48The anthropologist Richard Wrangham

14:49argues we did it to ourselves. That

14:52somewhere deep in prehistory, human

14:54[snorts] groups started doing something

14:56no other animal does. They ganged up on

14:59the bully.

15:00The male who terrorized everyone got

15:03ambushed, exiled, executed, and his

15:07genes left the pool. Over and over, for

15:10thousands of generations, the tolerant

15:12males survived and had children.

15:16The dangerous ones did not.

15:18We ran the same program on ourselves

15:20that we would one day run on cattle.

15:22We just ran it first.

15:24So, when you ask why we don't eat bulls,

15:26the honest answer is this.

15:28Because 10,000 years ago, we met a

15:31creature built entirely out of

15:33aggression. And instead of fighting it,

15:36we deleted the aggression and kept the

15:38animal. We turned a forest monster into

15:41a field of quiet waiting bodies. And the

15:44only reason that idea ever occurred to

15:47us is that it had already happened to

15:49our own ancestors.

15:51We are not the species that tamed the

15:53bull. We are the species that got tamed

15:56first and then turned around and did it

15:58to everything else. Run your fingers

16:00along your own brow right now.

16:02Feel how smooth it is.

16:04Feel how little bone is there.

16:07Your ancestors had a ridge of armor

16:09across that exact spot. Somewhere in the

16:11dark, over thousands of generations,

16:14it disappeared.

16:16Nobody chose it. Nobody noticed it

16:18happening.

16:19The bull never knew what was taken from

16:21him, either. The difference is, he still

16:23has horns. And we're the only animal

16:26walking around with the evidence of its

16:27own domestication printed on its face.

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