СТАРЫЙ ТАЛЛИНН: ЧТО НАМ НЕ РАССКАЗЫВАЛИ РАНЬШЕ? ЭКСКУРСИЯ С ГИДОМ в TALLINN OLD TOWN

0:00Teretere . Greetings to everyone from

0:02Tallinn , from the old town . Today is

0:04September 28th . Beautiful , wonderful

0:08weather , sunny . We've had rain all week

0:11, and now we've finally seen beautiful

0:13autumn weather . Irina will be helping

0:16us today . Irina is our professional

0:19guide . Not just in Tallinn , I think ,

0:21but all over Estonia .

0:22>> Yes , of course , and even beyond . That's

0:24>> it . Keep that in mind . We'll definitely

0:26put Irina's contact information and

0:28phone number on the screen . You can

0:30contact her on WhatsApp , Instagram ,

0:31Facebook , everything is posted .

0:33>> Everything is there , yes . For

0:34>> those who want a private tour , yes , we

0:36can arrange a tour or for groups .

0:37>> Yes , yes . Well , I'm also a museum

0:39educator , so the Tallinn Museum is at

0:41your service as well .

0:43>> Excellent . So today we'll have a very

0:45interesting episode . We'll see Tallinn .

0:47We won't just be strolling around ;

0:49we'll even hear about its history .

0:52After living in Turkey for almost four

0:54years , Irina and I came to the old town

0:56for the first time . We've been in

0:59Taylin for over a month , but we decided

1:01to take a walk with a guide and see it

1:04with fresh eyes . I think it will be

1:06very interesting not only for our

1:08viewers , but for us too . And today , two

1:10Irinas .

1:11>> Yes , you can make a wish . You , the

1:14viewers , can make a wish too . Yes , I'll

1:16take the camera and film you , Irina ,

1:19then .

1:20>> Thank you . Then , let's begin the tour .

1:23>> Yes , it's a great pleasure to welcome

1:25you to our city . You're great for not

1:27going for a walk around the old town on

1:29your own . Now we can see everything

1:31with fresh eyes after such a break .

1:33>> And we are in Vyshgorod . In Estonian

1:36it's called Tombia , in German it's

1:39Domberg . And this is the mountain where

1:41the house of God , that is , the Dome

1:42Church , is located . And the first

1:45conquerors were the Dakans , and the

1:51Crusaders came here , led by the Danish

1:53King Valdemar II , to conquer the lands

1:56and Christianize the pagans who lived

1:58here . And , of course , the Danish king

2:02began construction of the castle that's

2:04behind us . And the square where we're

2:06standing is called the castle square .

2:09And the locals , the Estonians who came

2:12under Danish rule , of course , saw this

2:16elevated point on the cliff ; there used

2:19to be a hill fort here , called Linda

2:22Onisa . And when they started building

2:26the castle and a town sprang up around

2:29it , the locals said it was a Danish

2:31town . That's the most common theory .

2:34You know , philologists always have many

2:35theories , unless they're recorded in

2:37the chronicles . It's that this is

2:39Tanilin , a Danish town , which turned

2:41into Tallinn . Incidentally , it

2:44officially became Tallinn only about

2:46100 years ago . So , for all these 800

2:49years , it's always been called that by

2:52Estonians , yes , but it officially

2:54became Tallinn . And before that , it was

2:57Revel , before that , Reval . And there

2:59are other names like Lindanisa , what I

3:02said , and Kolyvan . A

3:03>> good child always has many names .

3:06>> Yes , yes , yes . There's a beautiful

3:09building behind us . It's the provincial

3:13palace , built by order of Catherine the

3:16Great on the site of one of the walls

3:18of a medieval castle . One of the towers

3:23was removed , but three remained . We'll

3:26get to the most important one a little

3:28later . But for now , if you look around ,

3:31you'll see the Alexander Nevsky

3:34Cathedral opposite . And it's an

3:37Orthodox church , consecrated in 1900.

3:41It's not that old , but it's beautiful .

3:45They're also a piece of Tallinn's

3:48skyline , which without the Gothic spire

3:50, without the Baroque spire , without

3:53the onion domes of this church ,

3:55wouldn't be the same as Tallinn's

3:57skyline . So

3:59>> it's kind of gingerbread-like , right ?

4:00And it is .

4:01>> Yes , yes . Well , in the traditional

4:04style , Professor Preobrazhensky worked

4:06on the territory of the Pyukhti Convent

4:09. We have a convent located near Lake

4:12Chesko in Estonia . And so he built one ,

4:15modeled after the Moscow churches of

4:17the 10th and 10th centuries . It must be

4:20said that the mosaics were made by very

4:22renowned masters . And in the early

4:25years of its existence , the domes were

4:27gilded . Well , now they are like that ,

4:30and before the Second World War , the

4:32gilding was removed , and they remained

4:35as they are . We have very interesting

4:37crosses here , you see , with crescents .

4:39You don't always see such . And very

4:42often , tourists ask : " Why such crosses ?

4:44" But usually the main church , an

4:48Orthodox church , yes , the main church

4:50in a certain area , it has the right to

4:52have such a cross . It's like an anchor

4:55of faith , like a boat of faith . There

4:57are various explanations . And the

5:00church leaders themselves , uh , they say

5:02that this is the temple of the Lord Who

5:04rules , the reigning king . That is , it

5:08was very high in status . Well , this is

5:10Byzantium . This is greetings from

5:12Byzantium to you . Yes ,

5:13>> yes . Greetings to us from a Muslim

5:15country .

5:16>> Yes , but the Muslims got it later ,

5:18right ? So , this is a truly Christian

5:21story . For tourists , this grayish house

5:29with white accents is also very

5:31interesting , because in the 10th

5:33century , Abram Petrovich Hannibal , the

5:36very same ancestor of Alexander

5:38Sergeyevich Pushkin , was the governor ,

5:40the military governor , of the city of

5:43Reval for 10 years . And he lived in

5:45this house . And Alexander Sergeyevich

5:47Pushkin's grandfather was born here .

5:49Imagine how everything intersects . So ,

5:53before we go to the fortress walls and ,

5:56firstly , to the observation deck , let's

5:58go to the governor's garden . Let's do

6:02that .

6:02>> Well , from the castle square , let's go

6:04into the garden . Once upon a time ,

6:07there were defensive courtyards around

6:09the castle , fortifications ,

6:11fortifications — these names are very

6:13significant for those who study the

6:15history of fortifications . And here we

6:19wouldn't be able to walk so beautifully

6:21among the trees and bushes . And once

6:24upon a time , there were a lot of roses

6:27here , and you and I would have simply

6:29fallen through , because the Zwinger was

6:31a defensive courtyard , and if invaders

6:33got through , they would , naturally , be

6:35rained down arrows from above , making

6:37it very difficult to get to the castle .

6:40Here we are on a hill . Where did this

6:43hill come from ? The sea nearby is a

6:45very good strategic location . And there

6:48were always fortified settlements in

6:51such places , where people could hide

6:53and protect themselves . That is ,

6:55initially , in ancient times , they

6:57didn't live inside , but rather

6:58protected themselves . Naturally , if

7:00there was a sea nearby , the coastline

7:02was different , and there would be

7:05trading wharves below . And logistics

7:07and transit have always been our

7:09everything here , as they say . Ships

7:12arrived here , goods were brought in ,

7:14and then moved on from east to west ,

7:16from west to east . But before the city

7:19appeared , of course , the scale of trade

7:21was different . And what's also

7:24remarkable about this place is that we

7:26are actually on a mountain , well , about

7:2850 meters above sea level . And it's a

7:31mountain of stone . Made of limestone .

7:34Limestone is the national building

7:36stone of Estonia . It's a national

7:37material , indeed . The entire north and

7:40northeast are built from it , and it's

7:42still used today . Further south , it's

7:46scarce because our country falls on the

7:49Baltic Klint . These are limestone

7:52deposits from Lake Ladoga to Gotland , a

7:55distance of 1.00 km . We're very

7:58fortunate ; part of our land rests on

8:01these deposits . And the limestone lies

8:03in layers , making it fairly easy to

8:05mine . You cut a piece from the layer ,

8:08and there you have it , a ready-made

8:10slab for construction . That's why , if

8:13you look at the tower we've just come

8:15up to admire , it's built from spring

8:18stones . That's why our Tallinn is so

8:20ancient ; it's gray , and if there were

8:25churches , they'd be plastered over and

8:27it would be white . The Tallinn Gothic

8:30style is austere , light color , white or

8:33gray , with very little embellishment .

8:38Well , the tower is called Long Hermann ,

8:41and it's the tallest in the castle

8:43system . And at one time , it was the

8:47tallest on the Baltic coast . Of course ,

8:50they watched from the tower to see if

8:52>> the enemy was approaching , right ? If so

8:54, from which direction were the signals

8:57given . And at the top , if we're with

9:00you , we need to add another 48 meters

9:02or so . That is , it's very high above

9:05sea level . 20015 or 255 , well , I could

9:10be wrong , more than 200 steps to climb .

9:14And in principle , it's possible . There

9:16are open days . You can go to the

9:18parliament and the tower , climb up ,

9:21conquer this height and have a look .

9:23>> We were there once . It's not that easy .

9:26>> Well , interesting . Yes . And at the top ,

9:28of course , is the symbol of Estonia ,

9:30that is , our flag , the tricolor , and it

9:33rises every morning and lowers to the

9:35sounds of the anthem and lowers every

9:37evening , resting at night . Only one

9:39night a year , uh , in June , it doesn't

9:42lower completely . Two holidays in a row

9:44. And here , you see , like this

9:46decoration at the top of the tall

9:48Hermann . Well , first of all , why

9:50Hermann ? Hermann is a German word used

9:53to describe tall warriors in the German

9:56armies .

9:57>> And that's why towers are often called

10:00Long Hermann . In Narvi there's a Long

10:02Hermann , in Sarama , in Sara there's a

10:04Long Hermann . And our very tall Hermann

10:06. He really is taller than all of them .

10:08>> And these beautiful decorations are

10:11actually functional . These are mosquito

10:14nets . They usually had an opening , and

10:17you could shoot through them . That is ,

10:20there was no dead zone for an arrow , so

10:22if you got really close , you could get

10:25an arrow from above . So these are all

10:27defensive structures . And today it's a

10:30symbol of Tallinn , a symbol of Estonia ,

10:32and , well , a symbol of how history can

10:35be preserved while fitting very well

10:37architecturally and historically into

10:40the appearance of the old city . Why the

10:43governor's garden ? Because that pink

10:46building we saw at the beginning was

10:48the entrance to parliament , and the

10:50rebuilt one was built specifically for

10:53the governor and was called the

10:55governor's palace . And here , of course ,

10:58the zwinger was filled in . At first ,

11:00goats grazed , and then a beautiful

11:03garden was created . And the governor

11:05could stroll here . But in our time , in

11:09modern times , when our president was

11:12always a man , here , Kerkiel , his wife

11:15took care of the rose garden , which was

11:18located here . And when

11:22>> Kersi Kalilait became president , her

11:23husband , of course , didn't take care of

11:26the roses . And that's why all the roses

11:28are now in the frame of the garden in

11:29the presidential garden near the

11:31chancery . There . And here is a walking

11:33area . There . And from here you can look

11:36out to sea very well , but the most

11:38beautiful views of the sea we will see

11:41later . And we are standing , as it were ,

11:43on a bastion . The bastion dates back to

11:45Swedish times , when the city was

11:47surrounded by new fortifications and

11:49the bastion complex was being built .

11:51There . Let's return to the square .

11:55We've

11:55>> come back here for a moment to look in

11:58that direction . Catherine ordered the

12:02construction of the governor's palace ,

12:04but the extension is clearly an old

12:07fortress wall and even another tower ,

12:09called the lancron , or crown of the

12:12land . Another tower , overlooking the

12:15cliff , is called — we can't see it from

12:17here — the pilshker , or arrow sharpener

12:19. Such intimidating names they had .

12:23This entire area , the vast castle

12:25grounds , which later expanded from the

12:28Konventsky Palace , had these defensive

12:31towers , now used by our Riga Kogu or

12:34parliament , and yes , the entrance is

12:37from here . If you want — and you are ,

12:41after all , a resident of , well , the

12:43European Union , say , a resident of

12:45Tallinn or Estonia , you have a DKR , and

12:47you want to listen to a parliamentary

12:48session , please . You can come in .

12:51Parliamentarians go right , we go left .

12:54If you want to watch , leave your

12:56information and go to the balcony and

12:58see what's going on . The hall is

13:01unusual . We have the world's only

13:03expressionist parliamentary assembly

13:06hall , and we built it . It was built in

13:09the 1920s , during the Estonian Republic

13:12, on the site of the former Convent

13:14building , which had been damaged by

13:16fire . It had been a prison during the

13:19Revolution , and there was a big fire

13:21there . And they built a very beautiful

13:24building . It's classical on the inside

13:28and outside , but inside , it's

13:32lemon-blue and

13:34>> white , and it's expressionist . Very

13:37beautiful . Uh . There . And let's go to

13:39the information stand for a minute and

13:41see what the castle looks like from

13:44above . Yeah . You're right here . And

13:48from above , you can see that this part ,

13:51this square part . This is where the

13:54convent was located , the original

13:56center of the castle . And that's where

13:59that unique assembly hall is located .

14:02And here we have the tall Hermann . And

14:04in the distance , that arrow sharpener ,

14:07which we didn't see , and here is the

14:09crown of the land , the lanckrones . This

14:12is the castle they began building in

14:14the 10th century . And each new ruler

14:16completed the building , added something

14:18. And today our deputies work there .

14:23>> And Domberg , or Tompia , or Vyshgorod —

14:26this is where the nobility has always

14:29lived ,

14:30>> where knights have always lived , the

14:32Icelandic knighthood . The government is

14:34represented here and was here . Well ,

14:37and today our government sits here , yes

14:39, because there are many buildings here

14:41, where the chancery works , where the

14:44councils are . And the prime minister

14:46and his cabinet ministers also sit in

14:48Stenbeck House , and we will see it . We

14:50are with you on a street called Tomle ,

14:53that is , the Dome School . Yeah .

14:55>> Look , here are some very interesting

14:58dates , yes , dates . 1319. That is , the

15:02Danish king came here — we won't talk

15:05about many dates , but he came here in

15:071219 , in the 10th century .

15:10>> And 100 years later , in the 10th

15:12century , a school was opened , the Dome

15:14School . And if you look at the entrance

15:17to Talina , Tom Kol , the Dome School

15:19continues its work . There were various

15:22periods , and for a very long time ,

15:24there was a ballet school here , which

15:26now has a new building . Uday . Very

15:31famous people taught here . Probably all

15:33the listeners of your channel know the

15:36name Kruzenshtern in every way . Ivan

15:38Fyodorovich Kruzenshtern , in particular

15:40,

15:40>> because he was born on Estonian soil .

15:43He , uh , studied at this school , he went

15:47to church for prayers . Yeah .

15:50>> And then , after , uh , he spent his life ,

15:54served , uh , was a conqueror of the

15:59Arctic latitudes and so on , then when

16:02his life ended , he was buried in the

16:04dome church . And in the dome church , so

16:07to speak , yes , that is , a resting place

16:09. Many famous people found their final

16:12resting place . And until the time of

16:17Catherine the Great , parishioners ,

16:19wealthy parishioners of this church ,

16:22could receive a place and be buried

16:24under the floor . The tombstones there

16:28are such symbols , monuments to the

16:30people , the families buried there .

16:33Later , burials in the church were no

16:35longer allowed , but an exception was

16:37made for a few people , including Ivan

16:40Fyodorovich Kuzenshtern . So , there are

16:43St. Andrew's flags above the grave . Eh ,

16:46you can still see them . And what else

16:49would I like to say before we approach

16:51the Dome Church ? There , up ahead , you

16:53see that yellow house .

16:54>> Yes , it's cute ,

16:56>> cute . Maybe it reminds you of something

16:59? I don't know .

17:01>> Have you ever seen this house ? I'll

17:03tell you , in a movie .

17:07>> Well , I think , of course you have .

17:09That's a trick question , right ? You

17:11immediately start thinking , " Oh , my God

17:13, how could I not know ? " Okay , I'll

17:14tell you . A girl lived on the second

17:17floor and grew a rose . It's

17:20>> not about Kai . Kai , Gerda , it's Domi

17:23Gerda . Absolutely right . A wonderful

17:25film was made in Soviet times . If

17:26anyone hasn't seen it , be sure to watch

17:29it . And it was filmed , in general , many

17:31films were filmed in our city . But the

17:34Snow Queen was skating right on these

17:36playgrounds . Let's go closer , we'll

17:39have a look . And Gerda lived in her

17:42house . Of course , the shots of her at

17:44home were filmed in studios , but from

17:47the outside , if you watch the film ,

17:49you'll see this very

17:51>> house . And here , the Snow Queen was

17:55driving her beautiful carriage , which

17:59Kai caught on with his staff . And there

18:03they go . There's

18:04>> knocking at our place . So what to do ?

18:06>> So what to do ? We've come to the Dome

18:08Church . We're on Domberg , yes , on

18:11Tompea . And here , of course , is the

18:14main Lutheran church . It was once

18:16Catholic . They started building it in

18:19the 10th century , because , well , what

18:21kind of castle would it be without a

18:22church nearby ? It started out quite

18:26small , but then it grew , and it has a

18:28very , very rich history . I've already

18:32told you about Tallinn's Gothic style ,

18:33but here you can see that our spire is

18:35anything but Gothic . Yes , well , the

18:38spires were rebuilt after fires . First

18:40of all , there were a lot of fires in

18:43the city , even though everything was

18:45built of stone and wood was forbidden ,

18:48but the floors were still wooden . The

18:51utensils inside were wooden , and during

18:53thunderstorms , lightning would strike

18:56the highest points . So later , when the

18:59spires were restored , they built a

19:01completely different one , following the

19:03fashion . And here , Irina , look how much

19:06you see , and the hands on the clock .

19:10>> Well , be careful , sweat . Yes ,

19:13>> that's absolutely right . One hand

19:16>> that shows the correct time . And how

19:19many minutes ? It doesn't matter ,

19:22>> because back then , well , no one was in

19:24such a hurry as we are now .

19:26>> Absolutely lucky hours ,

19:28>> yes . That's how it is . That this clock

19:30is running , people look at it and stop

19:33a little . Something like that . That

19:36blue building there is the episcopate .

19:39Naturally , the Lutheran bishop should

19:41be nearby , and he is . But there is

19:44another clock on the Dome Church . We'll

19:46see it now . This is also somewhat , you

19:49know , humorous in this regard . If you

19:53go into this church , you'll see a lot

19:56of coats of arms on the walls . These

20:00are coats of arms , coats of arms

20:02epitaphs , that is , memories of the

20:04people buried here . It's a traditional

20:08story that when a nobleman , a knight ,

20:12was buried , a copy of his original coat

20:15of arms was always brought and left in

20:19the church . As you know , in Orthodoxy

20:22we write notes , yes , memorials , and

20:24here is a coat of arms epitaph . And the

20:27Dome Cathedral in Tallinn has the

20:29largest collection in Europe ; indeed , I

20:31think , there are more than 100 coats of

20:33arms in the world . The only thing is

20:35that due to fires , only the coats of

20:37arms from the 15th century onwards have

20:39survived , but they are still very

20:41interesting .

20:42>> And now we've

20:44>> come to another entrance to this church

20:46. And above the entrance , you see ,

20:49there's a sundial . We have a clock on

20:51the church in Olivetto and across from

20:53the town hall , on the town hall square .

20:56And many people ask , " How can there be

20:58so many sundials ? This isn't Turkey ,

21:00excuse me . " And we say , " We always hope

21:04for a sunny day . " The latter is

21:07absolutely true . Of course , the city

21:10has its legends , and even such a sacred

21:13place as the cathedral wouldn't be

21:15without a legend . If you and I were to

21:19enter through this entrance , the

21:21internal porch is large , and you step

21:24onto the tombstone where Ottawa , a

21:26local , wealthy man , is buried . They say

21:30he was quite the ladies ' man in life ,

21:32never letting anyone pass by , flirting ,

21:35courting , and even more . And toward the

21:38end of his life , he repented . And when

21:40he repented , he said , " Bury me right

21:42here by the entrance , so that everyone

21:45who comes in will trample me , and after

21:47life I will continue to repent . " But

21:50evil tongues claim that he still looks

21:52up the skirts of women who come in from

21:55there . Well , that's just a funny legend

21:59.

22:00>> There . And on the houses you see signs

22:03like these , yes , National Monument or

22:05the culture of Mali , that is , these are

22:08buildings that are protected by the

22:10state . This is our heritage , a great

22:14historical value . There . Well , and from

22:16here you can see very well that very

22:18same Tallinn Gothic of ours . The

22:20craftsmen , I probably really wanted to ,

22:23from our Duomo , if I were a craftsman ,

22:25I would want to make something

22:28semblance of a house . These are houses ,

22:30only Tallinn , yes , not Milanese .

22:33>> Carved from limestone . Limestone is a

22:35wonderful material . It carves

22:36beautifully , but of all these beautiful

22:39figures , this stone carving , in 150

22:41years , well , there will be little left .

22:43Our climate is such that it begins to

22:45crumble . There . And that's why , uh ,

22:48they didn't decorate it with large

22:49carvings . The only thing they did was

22:52make these large , rich portals . What

22:54the craftsmen could have done was

22:57decorate the window niches . I mean , if

23:01we were to walk around the entire Duomo

23:03Cathedral , every single window carving

23:06would be unique . But the craftsmen did

23:11find little details like these to , oh

23:13yeah , decorate , decorate the cathedral .

23:23There's a

23:23>> date on the spire ,

23:25>> right ? That's when the spire was

23:27installed , right ? And that was right

23:29after , uh ,

23:31>> after the fire .

23:33>> Yeah .

23:33>> Yeah , unfortunately , fires were , yeah ,

23:35pretty common . And on all the churches

23:37you'll see these yellow-gold spheres .

23:40>> Yeah .

23:41>> I call them time capsules , because when

23:43they were building , they'd put in

23:45documents from that period , coins , well

23:47, some greetings to their descendants .

23:49When they start restoring , they pull

23:52out what they can get out , what's there

23:54, and put in the next bit . And that's

23:56how they pass it on .

23:58>> Well , it's kind of , you know ,

24:00unnecessary , but very interesting , this

24:01kind of transmission from generation to

24:03generation . Interesting data . Well ,

24:06let's move on .

24:07>> Let's move on .

24:10>> Yes , here we are now at such a site .

24:12Well , next to us is the Dome Church . So

24:14, here are the houses where the owners

24:17of estates from all over Estonia spent

24:19the winter . They had summer manors ,

24:22manors , and in the winter they lived in

24:25their palaces , houses , you could say

24:27different things . Uh , you say , on Tomp ,

24:31on Domberg at that time . After all ,

24:34German was the predominant language .

24:36And , as we said , we had the Danes , the

24:39first visitors , conquerors . Then , ah ,

24:42the Livonian Order owned this territory

24:44. Then there was the Swedish kingdom ,

24:47the good old Swedish times , as the

24:49Estonians say . And after the Northern

24:53War , Iceland , Livonia , after the

24:55signing of the Treaty of Nastas in 1921

24:58, became part of the Russian Empire .

25:02That is , until 1918 , when the Republic

25:05of Estonia was born . And over the years

25:08, like in the 10th century , when the

25:11Dacha residents came and invited

25:13merchants here to support them , yes ,

25:15materially , the German language arrived

25:17. But we'll talk more about this in the

25:20lower town , because the lower town was

25:22a Hanseatic city . We're now in the city

25:25of Orange , in the Upper Town . And

25:27German was the language of

25:30jurisprudence until the mid - 10th

25:33century . That's how long it lasted .

25:35That's why we have so many different

25:37names and various , maybe even , well ,

25:39details related to this .

25:42>> Take the Icelandic Knighthood , which ,

25:45naturally , owned the territory , yes ,

25:47the houses , went to church , as we

25:49already said , and studied at school .

25:53Young knights would show off their

25:55achievements in this square , how they

25:57rode highlanders , and so on . By the way

26:00, about the school we passed in the

26:04Vatican chronicles . In addition to the

26:08story of the quarrel between the

26:10Knights of the Sword and the monks and

26:12priests of the dome church , there was

26:15also a complaint from the dome school

26:17in the city of Reval . Teachers

26:21complained that the offspring of

26:23knightly families were poorly attending

26:26school , didn't want to study , didn't

26:28want to learn to read and write , and so

26:30on .

26:32>> Just imagine , Irina , you're a knight ,

26:35you have children , and you want them to

26:38be able to read and write in the 10th

26:40century .

26:42>> Well , maybe that's not necessary . Back

26:44then , they

26:44>> could even read and write . That's not

26:46the most important thing . So what ?

26:48Worship , yes . A horse , etiquette ,

26:51dancing . All that was much more

26:53important .

26:54>> And the Vatican representative

26:56responded to the complaint : " Fine the

26:58parents . " That's it .

27:00>> Nothing has changed . Nothing has

27:02changed . The same old rumors are still

27:04going around . Yes , it helped . And it

27:06was written down how much money went to

27:08the school , how much to the treasury ,

27:10how much , therefore , to the complainant

27:12, and so on . And then they started

27:13attending better . So , even stories like

27:15that , but this is not a legend , it's

27:17real . Various tournaments were held

27:20here , festive , demonstrative ones . And

27:24behind us is the more modern Icelandic

27:26Knighthood building , restored and now

27:28owned by the government . It's a

27:31representative building . Various

27:33meetings are held there , including

27:35welcoming foreign guests , but it's the

27:37first building with a ramp in the Upper

27:39Upper Town .

27:41>> There . And here we have another

27:42interesting building . Well , upstairs

27:45there are various rooms , including

27:47shops downstairs and apartments

27:48upstairs . Each building has its own

27:51life . And this building once belonged

27:54to the Fontolle family . Fontolle is

27:57also very well known to many people , if

27:59you've seen the film " Sanikov Land . "

28:03Fontolle , or as they call it , the

28:05Fonstolle , the leaders of the Arctic

28:08expedition , were certain that somewhere

28:10in these icy waters of the Arctic there

28:12was an island with geysers , where it

28:15was warm , and where a tribe lived . And

28:18they called it " Sanikov Land . " And in

28:21fact , the first expedition searched and

28:23found nothing , and the second

28:25expedition didn't find Sannikov Land ,

28:27but Fontolle himself died . And so , if

28:30anyone has seen this film , he is

28:32mentioned at the very beginning . And

28:34this is the very same person who once

28:37lived in this house .

28:38>> And now there are apartments upstairs ,

28:39right ?

28:40>> Well , there are , generally speaking ,

28:43representative apartments , yes ,

28:45premises .

28:46>> Lots to rent . You see , judging by the ,

28:50uh , mountains , this is clearly , well ,

28:51maybe not an apartment , although who

28:53knows .

28:55>> Firstly , the owners change , and you can

28:57rent something like this . What's

29:00interesting here is that we are on a

29:01mountain , Mount Pokataya , that is , on

29:03this side , right now , we have Kokhtu

29:04Street called Judicial . That is , we are

29:07walking , as it were , in the direction

29:09of the provincial court . The houses on

29:11this street are about two stories high ,

29:14well , two and a half . And on the right

29:17side , parallel to it , is a street

29:20called Long Leg . And they all come out

29:22there , and it's a cliff . And these

29:24houses there are four and five stories

29:26high . They are very representative . And

29:30this small house , this pink one , yes ,

29:32the Finnish flag is raised over there

29:34because it's the Finnish embassy . It's

29:37so small here , but it'll be so serious

29:39there .

29:40>> And this , well , also such a gray

29:42entrance — that's the Estonian Academy

29:44of Sciences . But if we look inside ,

29:47you'll see the house itself

29:51>> used to belong to the Ungernshterberg

29:54family . Ah , a very interesting person .

29:56We could make a separate episode about

29:59him . There he is , this Black Baron , his

30:01name was Hero of Mongolia . He also

30:03visited here as a child . He's from the

30:06same family . Our people , when the

30:08lights turn on in the evening and this

30:10neo-Gathic style — yes , everything is

30:12illuminated , especially from the city

30:14side —

30:15>> they say that Tallinn's Dracula lives

30:18in this house . Well , you can't feed a

30:20person bread , let him come up with

30:22something scary , yes , a legend , a

30:23mysticism . Well , who knows , ghosts live

30:35in all sorts of houses , of course . The

30:37first thing we ask the residents is if

30:39there is a ghost . But this is the

30:40Academy of Sciences , and that question

30:42doesn't come up here . They say , " Of

30:45course not . " You can see here that the

30:48limestone is interspersed with shale —

30:50also an important Estonian

30:52>> material , mined , yes , in mines . And

30:55here it's a little brownish . A very

30:57interesting building . Of course , the

31:00Academy of Sciences occupies other

31:01buildings , but this is the main

31:03building .

31:03>> There . And further on , as we go , each

31:06building is associated with some famous

31:09family . The pink house , which belongs

31:13to the Finnish Embassy , was once home

31:16to the Eskuli , also a very famous

31:19family in Estonia . And then it belonged

31:26to Konstantin Patz — the first

31:28president of the Republic of Estonia ,

31:31who once offered to buy this house for

31:33the Finnish Embassy because he needed

31:36money to cover a bank loan . But it

31:41wasn't his only home ; he wanted to keep

31:43it for himself so he could live there

31:45in retirement . So there you have it .

31:47Well , that's how it happened . It

31:49wouldn't have been of any use anyway .

31:51His family's and his own personal

31:53history are very complicated . But back

31:57then , in the 1930s , he was very

32:00friendly with Finland . He had friends

32:04there too , and they bought it , and he

32:06became a tenant . He liked the house .

32:09But it's a bit of a joke , you know ,

32:11historically . The president of one

32:13country lived on the territory of

32:16another . Well , that's how it happens

32:18sometimes . We passed an interesting

32:19building . We work here , and the

32:22Chancellor is right . This is the

32:25Kulbors House , signed with gratitude to

32:27the ancestors , built at the time .

32:30What's interesting is that this

32:32architect is Carl Ludvig Engel , the man

32:34who rebuilt the center of Helsinki . If

32:38you've been to Helsinki , you remember

32:40that central Senate Square , right ,

32:43where the large cathedral stands , the

32:45church , and the university on one side ,

32:47and the Senate on the other . And

32:50they're yellow , in the same style , with

32:53white columns . The white columns stand

32:56out like a long line . Let's

32:58>> go to what I consider the most

33:00beautiful spot at the top , the most

33:02beautiful observation deck . We're

33:05talking about historical figures . By

33:07the way , there's another interesting

33:09grave in the Dome Cathedral . Ferdinand

33:12Tiesenhausen is buried there . He's

33:15Kutuzov's son-in-law . Kutuzov's

33:17son-in-law , yes . They lived here ,

33:20roughly in this courtyard area . This ,

33:24by the way , is our remaining Apsharpe ,

33:26yes , it's the style the entire old city

33:28was built in . It's currently being

33:30restored . And we hope the new owners of

33:34this house will tidy it up . But Kutuzov

33:37only came to Reval once , when he wanted

33:40to support his daughter after his

33:43son-in-law , Autran , died . And he's

33:45buried like this . What else is so

33:46interesting about him ? He's the man who

33:49, during the Battle of Austria , raised

33:52the flag when the standard-bearer was

33:54killed , and led the way . And this whole

33:58story is described in Leo Tolstoy's

34:00very famous novel , War and Peace . So ,

34:03this is Volkonsky's prototype . So ,

34:06that's ours too . Yes .

34:08>> Yes . And here we have an observation

34:11deck , from which you can pretend you're

34:14a bird or a seagull . A seagull named

34:17Steven , who has a huge number of photos

34:20on Instagram . Yes . You'll see Steven in

34:26different positions . He usually sits

34:28here , waiting to be fed .

34:30>> Here he is , please . Here's Steven ,

34:32please . And why Steven ?

34:35>> Because he's a sigle .

34:37>> Sigle . And that's

34:39>> our local humor . Yes .

34:43>> Well , really , the guys named him , so if

34:45there's Steven Sigle , then we have

34:46Sigle , and he'll be Steven .

34:49>> Yes . He always poses on the most

34:52interesting spot , because the old town

34:53is very visible from here . Of course ,

34:58you should feed him , but there's

34:59nothing .

35:00>> This one will eat everything . Perhaps

35:03the soul of some baron who lived here

35:05has transferred into him .

35:08>> Yes , but I think , with his

35:10entrepreneurial acumen , most likely a

35:11merchant from the lower town . Yes , yes ,

35:14yes ,

35:15>> yes . How beautiful . A popular spot for

35:19tourists , too . And you know , when there

35:21are no tourists , we like to come here ,

35:24sit , and look . Nicholas Roerich has a

35:27painting called " The Old King . " If you

35:29find it , take a look , you'll see this

35:32spot . The only thing is , the sky will

35:34be golden , and the spires won't have

35:36crosses on them ,

35:38>> but golden suns . He painted it based on

35:43his memories of this very spot . He also

35:46came here to Tallinn to visit us , and

35:48he's been to Estonia more than once .

35:50And here's the old king . You can take a

35:52look .

35:52>> Good .

35:53>> Yes . And now here's Stephen , of course ,

35:55a wonderful poser . Well done . Well done

35:59. Yes . Yes . Kayaka in Estonian means

36:02seagull . That's why you can find it

36:04like this . And he shows us the beauty .

36:07Behind him , you can see skyscrapers in

36:09the distance . Yes .

36:11>> Well , yes , for us , they are skyscrapers

36:13, of course . This is the City quarter ,

36:16which is located on the site of the

36:18former onion village of Sibula . And of

36:22course , people far removed from finance

36:24lived there , poor people who grew

36:25onions , but now it's a financial

36:27district , and all our banks are being

36:29built there . And this adds to the

36:32skyline . That is , the old skyline of

36:35Tallinn is now officially enhanced by

36:37the silhouette of these tall buildings .

36:41But the most important rule , uh , of the

36:43architectural development of our city :

36:46no building should be taller than the

36:49Olivesta Church . Olivesta Church . We

36:53can go a little further , let's go this

36:55way , so as not to interfere with the

36:57guys taking photos . Uh-huh .

36:59>> There . And the church is very visible .

37:02It's now almost 124 meters high , 123

37:05meters 7 , to be exact . And once it was

37:09159 meters high . It burned down very

37:13often , I think 11 times , if I'm not

37:15mistaken . There was a fire . The last

37:18one was in the 19th century . And the

37:20spire fell on the block , and there was

37:22a fire nearby . And sometimes in old

37:24engravings this church stands without a

37:27spire . But under Nicholas I , it was

37:31decided that the ancient medieval

37:33Gothic town of Revel should have at

37:36least one church . A Gothic spire . And

37:39when they restored it , they returned to

37:41historical truth . The only thing is

37:44that they didn't make it 159 meters

37:46high , but 120 meters — almost four . And

37:50if you measure all these skyscrapers ,

37:52they're at least a couple of meters

37:54shorter , because the modern silhouette

37:56shouldn't overlap the historical one .

37:59So there you have it .

38:00>> And so here we see tiled roofs and the

38:03start of the longest street below . And

38:07in front of us , a rooster is spinning .

38:10See , this is considered Tallinn's most

38:12beautiful weather vane . It's on the

38:15Long Leg tower . Look at our interesting

38:19logic . Tallinn is a Danish city . The

38:22Dochans conquered a Danish city .

38:25>> And we have a Long Leg Street and a

38:29Short Leg Street . So , our Stalin is

38:32limping , right ? And at the beginning of

38:36Long Leg Street is Long Leg Tower , and

38:39where Short Leg Street is ,

38:41>> Short Leg Tower . So , the longest street

38:46is called Long Peak ,

38:48>> and next to it , the widest street of

38:50the old year is called Wide Lai .

38:52Everything is very clear and precise

38:54here . Yes ,

38:55>> everything is logical , yes .

38:58>> And what else do we see ? The sea , of

39:00course . In the distance , you can see

39:02the TV tower . It was built in 1980 ,

39:05just in time for the Olympics . And

39:08thanks to the Olympics , of course , a

39:10huge number of facilities were built

39:13and restored , the Olympic Center was

39:15built , and the sailing regatta was held

39:17here during the Summer Olympics . People

39:21still enjoy all the amenities built

39:24during that time . And thank God , the

39:26city needed all of this . And the tower ,

39:30of course , is taller than the Church of

39:33St. Olevist , but when it was built , it

39:35was far away . It was far from the city .

39:39Now it is within the city limits . All

39:41the buildings are shorter than Olvist's

39:43Church . Of course , there's a legend

39:45about Olvist's Church , which might have

39:47already become familiar to those who

39:49live here . But those who don't probably

39:52need to know why it's called that .

39:55Historically , it's Saint Olaf . He's the

39:58Norwegian king who Christianized Norway

40:01. It's dedicated to him . And the legend

40:05is a very long tale about how the tower

40:07was built . The final pieces had to be

40:10laid at the top , this golden ball had

40:13to be put in place , and the rooster had

40:15to be installed . Now there's a cross

40:17there , but in the past , of course ,

40:18there were roosters . And you can see

40:20roosters in Riga , and in many cities ,

40:22and in the outskirts of Estonia , if you

40:24drive around , there will be roosters

40:26too . But none of the locals would save

40:29themselves , they wouldn't agree ,

40:31because there had already been some

40:33unfortunate experiences , people had

40:35fallen . And then a craftsman , unknown

40:37to anyone , came along and

40:39>> said , " No , two sacks aren't enough ,

40:42let's make four . "

40:44>> And the magistrate was running the city

40:45, everything was already being built

40:46down below . The magistrate was in town

40:48hall and said , " No , four is too much . "

40:51He said , " Well , then , as you wish . " "

40:52Okay , " he said , " Let's make a bet ,

40:54you'll find out my name . " Then it'll be

40:58free . And if you don't find out , then

41:01four sacks , of course , will do .

41:04>> I know how to play this game . Yes ,

41:06>> yes , we'll guess in two notes , yes .

41:09>> And so for two weeks he worked on these

41:12final details . He came to the city with

41:14his wife and small child . And no one

41:17knew , just as the merchants didn't find

41:19out , just as they didn't send their

41:20scouts there , no one knows . So the

41:23foreman came and that's it , the wife is

41:24silent as a partisan . The child can't

41:27even speak yet . Well , that's it ,

41:29tomorrow he already orders : " Get the

41:31money ready . "

41:32>> And they saved the situation . Well ,

41:33according to the legend , of course , it

41:35was all boys running around , playing ,

41:37and in the basement , suddenly they saw

41:39a woman rocking a baby and singing a

41:41song . Tomorrow our daddy Olaf will come

41:44and bring four sacks of money . They ran

41:47to the magistrate and told him .

41:49>> Yeah .

41:50>> The magistrate gave them each a silver

41:52coin , and everyone gathered in the

41:54morning . He was supposed to set up the

41:56tamka .

41:57>> They gathered and waited . And as soon

41:59as he finished his work , they started

42:01shouting : "

42:03>> Olaf , fix the rooster , it's crooked .

42:05Olaf , we see you . " He slipped in

42:09surprise and fell down . But they say

42:13that when he fell , when he hit the

42:15ground , a toad and a snake jumped out

42:17of his mouth . And all of it turned to

42:20stone . And the people of the town

42:22realized that no ordinary person could

42:25have handled such a task . So he made a

42:28deal with the devil's forces , and

42:30that's why they helped him . But that's

42:32how it all ended .

42:34>> If you think this is all just fairy

42:36tales , then if you go around this

42:38church from the other side , there's a

42:40kinotaph , a false grave , and you should

42:42be able to spot a toad , a snake , and a

42:43skeleton . That's a

42:46>> legend , right ?

42:47>> Yes . No , well , actually , of course it's

42:49a legend , but you see , all legends are

42:51immediately surrounded by interesting

42:52details like these .

42:54>> There . But the main thing to know is

42:56that , firstly , this is a pilot point .

42:57On the Lutzmans ' maps , there's always a

43:00point called the olive-tree church . The

43:02route is based on it .

43:04>> There . And here we see the Viru Hotel .

43:07The first skyscraper . This was in 1972 ,

43:10when foreigners began settling in . In

43:131965 , they re-established contact with

43:15Helsinki . First , they started going to

43:18the steamship to Anamuny , then to the

43:20very famous Rkods . And NTrist should

43:22have been built , but that's a separate

43:25topic , but it's roughly the edge in

43:27that direction , the eastern edge of our

43:30old city . And now we're at the top , but

43:32we still have to go down , because the

43:34entire merchant town was built below .

43:37The bay , the harbor , everything is here

43:39. Goods came from there , and German

43:42merchants ran the lower town . They were

43:46members of a large merchant guild . They

43:48held their meetings in the town hall .

43:50From here we can see the town hall

43:51spire and see the old tomos very well

43:53there against the backdrop of clouds .

43:56It's unfurled beautifully there , facing

43:58us . And on the flag at the top , the

44:01year 1996 is written .

44:03>> Although since 1530 , it's known that it

44:08was gilded . Yep . And the first tomos ,

44:12for which this very year is written , is

44:15in the town museum . It's preserved .

44:18Then there was another tomos , it now

44:20stands in the basement of the town hall

44:21, where there's a museum . And after

44:23that , they installed a granddaughter . I

44:25call him this granddaughter . Yes , yes .

44:27And he was already in 1996. In 1990 ,

44:30UNESCO placed the entire old town of

44:32Tallinn under its protection as the

44:34best preserved example of an ancient

44:37Hanseatic merchant city . Uh-huh .

44:39>> Well , let's go down . Thomas .

44:42>> Yes , old Thomas .

44:44>> Oh , there's a wedding here . Stephen is

44:47here , and there's a wedding . All

44:49together .

44:53>> Well , it's interesting with a wedding ,

44:55huh ? They're

44:57>> two white ones . Undress the poor girl .

45:01It's cold .

45:04>> Well , beauty is simply such a delight

45:06for the eyes ,

45:08>> and for the ears . This is our street ,

45:11despite the stern name of the people's

45:13court . Well , because we're getting

45:16closer and closer to the former

45:18courthouse , yes , the narrowest street

45:20in our city . As they say , its , uh ,

45:23width is the length of a spear , the

45:26spear of a knight or , uh , a warrior who

45:28rode around the city in the evening ,

45:31for example , making sure everything was

45:34in order . Or , in any case , the city's

45:37defender . If he were attacked

45:40unexpectedly , he would have to be able

45:43to move his spear 360 ° . For that ,

45:48>> the street couldn't be longer than his

45:50spear . Well , our people make up stories

45:53, and they say it's the street , they

45:55say now , of a drunken knight . If a

45:59knight has been drinking , is riding his

46:00horse , and is unsteady , he turns his

46:02spear , and it holds him , preventing him

46:03from falling . So there you have it . And

46:07by the way , here he's not with a spear ,

46:09but with a sword like this , yes , but

46:11also very long . And if we look from

46:15this side , having just passed by a bit ,

46:17there's another legend connected with

46:19this same place , because they tell this

46:21story : yes , ladies in springers were

46:23walking towards each other , collided at

46:26the narrowest point and started making

46:28noise . You must let me pass . Not you ,

46:32not you . They were making such a noise

46:34that a window opened , and a local

46:36resident said , " Lord , woman , man ,

46:38naturally , let the younger one pass ,

46:40and the older one will go on . " And what

46:43did the ladies do ? They went their

46:45separate ways . So , there's an

46:47interesting visual legend here , too .

46:50Here . Well , and up ahead , that yellow

46:52building is just the corner of the

46:54Stenback House . This is where the prime

46:57minister and the cabinet of ministers

46:59currently work , and you can also

47:01sometimes visit during open houses . And

47:04we'll go out to the observation deck

47:07and look at the beautiful row of towers

47:10of the lower town , the fortress wall .

47:15And let's imagine that the entire city

47:17lived surrounded by the protective

47:19walls of these very towers , each of

47:21which has its own name . Yes , we have

47:30nuts everywhere , in different places ,

47:32because it's believed that the best

47:34ones ... Hello . The best ones in ... Try it

47:38, try it , they're very tasty . Yes .

47:41That's from an orange .

47:44>> The favorite delicacy of merchants and

47:46residents of the upper town were nuts

47:48that were roasted with spices . Yes . Yes

47:52, it's

47:52>> all handmade , made nowhere here , not in

47:55a single store , not in a single

47:57supermarket . Very cool . Make a great

48:00gift , or as a souvenir to try yourself .

48:02The next flavor is with lemon . I

48:03recommend you don't swallow it right

48:05away , but hold it in your mouth for a

48:06bit . Then the flavor will unfold better

48:08. While you're trying it , I'll tell you

48:10about the next flavor . There's a legend

48:12that in the 15th century , a monk came

48:14here to Tallinn , brought almonds here ,

48:16and started making them . Exactly

48:18according to this recipe . It's believed

48:20to be the very first flavor . It

48:22includes cinnamon , ginger , and a little

48:24black pepper . It's the taste of

48:26Christmas . Please try it . You

48:30>> won't find nuts like these anywhere

48:31else . I take my favorites myself .

48:33>> Yes . This is the most delicious . This

48:34is one of the very first flavors .

48:36There's also cherry flavor . Would you

48:38like to try this flavor ? In my

48:39experience , all children love this

48:41flavor . Very tasty .

48:43>> Dezhite .

48:43>> Thank you . There's

48:46>> also coffee flavor . Do you have a large

48:49selection ,

48:51>> please ? For me , it tastes like

48:53chocolate , very tasty

48:56>> coffee .

48:58>> And a small pack costs 7 euros . It’s

49:00100 g . A large one is 200 g euros .

49:03>> Yep . Excellent . Thank you very much .

49:05Thank you very much . Have a nice day .

49:08>> Thank you too .

49:10>> My favorite one . Yes , it’s with

49:11cinnamon .

49:13>> Yep . They fed us

49:15>> nuts . Yes , yes , they treat you . Oh , and

49:20Sivin flew after us , look , this is

49:22disgraceful . He won’t let us go , yes ,

49:24but they won’t give him nuts

49:27>> because he’ll eat them too .

49:29>> Yes .

49:30>> Steven , hi . Hi ,

49:33>> hi . Sorry , I didn’t bring you lard , I

49:36didn’t bring you cookies

49:38>> and you can’t have nuts .

49:40>> Next time ,

49:41>> the fish is over there in the Gulf of

49:43Finland in the Baltic Sea . Yes .

49:46>> There . Another observation deck , also

49:48very beautiful . We love it . You can see

49:50different angles from here , but the

49:52towers are very visible here . True , the

49:55Golden Leg , the tower is currently

49:57being restored . There . But right in

49:59front of us is the big little tower .

50:00It's called , mm , " sister's , " if you

50:03translate it . Nuns by name , well , by

50:06word , like nuns . Nuns lived there .

50:09There was a monastery there , and the

50:11small dome of the church is just

50:13visible . That's the Church of the

50:16Transfiguration of Our Lord now . And

50:17just a little to the left , there's a

50:19small tower , see ?

50:20>> Yes , it's

50:21>> very small . It's called a sauna , right ?

50:24So , there was a nuns ' bathhouse nearby .

50:27And there was also a quarrel with the

50:29locals there . Uh , well , everything

50:33ended well in the end , no one was hurt ,

50:35they just built the bathhouse in a new

50:37location and a new tower . So , each

50:40tower has its own name . Many have a

50:43name that reflects the surname of the

50:46merchant who lived nearby .

50:49>> And the tower of the board , Grubsbeke ,

50:50Helleman — these are all the names of

50:52the merchants who lived nearby .

50:54>> Today we would say that they invested ,

50:56yes , money in the preservation of the

50:58tower , gunpowder . And every man living

51:01in the city knew that when the alarm

51:04bell on the town hall started ringing ,

51:06and that the city needed to be defended

51:09, and that it made certain sounds , they

51:12had to move to their tower . Everyone

51:15was assigned , as we would say today , to

51:17their tower . Gunpowder and weapons were

51:19supposed to be there , and

51:21>> then they defended it . And the fortress

51:25city of Reval never surrendered to the

51:28enemy until the Great Northern War .

51:32During the Great Northern War , it so

51:34happened that there was a plague , and

51:36only a thousand of the 15,000

51:37population remained there . And , of

51:40course , no Swedish garrison could have

51:42saved them , and they understood that if

51:44they didn't sign a peace treaty , that

51:47is , surrender to the mercy of the

51:48victor , the city would be destroyed .

51:52They would lose property and lives , too

51:53. So that's why this decision was made .

51:58So there you have it . But it

51:59>> turns out that the city has never been

52:02taken by storm , historically . We call

52:05it the Deva Fortress . It's so virginal .

52:08You're a good boy , you're listening so

52:10attentively . You're really smart today ,

52:13aren't you ? He's clearly full , and he's

52:15now absorbing the historical truth . Yes

52:18.

52:19>> There . So you can see very well from

52:20here . Leaf , you can even see the

52:22islands ahead . There are 2.22 islands

52:25in Estonia . Very easy to remember , four

52:28twos . There .

52:29>> And the closest island is Aigna , it's

52:31part of the city . It's perfectly

52:34accessible in the summer . People go

52:36there to pick mushrooms and so on .

52:39>> Our sea is slightly salty , with medium

52:42waves . Well , it does make you a little

52:45seasick because of this medium wave ,

52:48but then again , this is the route , the

52:50waterway along which traders got here ,

52:52ships arrived , and various conquerors

52:55like Valdemar II . If you look a little

52:59ahead , we can see the area beyond the

53:02trees . This is the Baltic Station , and

53:05behind it were the workshops , the

53:07railway workshops , some of the largest

53:08in the Russian Empire . And now , after

53:11restoration , the shape of the roofs has

53:14been completely replicated . There's the

53:18Baltic Station market there now , with a

53:21good food court and a really cool

53:23market where you can find everything

53:26you want : food , clothes , and , let's say

53:29, pleasure .

53:30>> Yes , it's very tasty there , everything

53:32is beautiful .

53:32>> Yes . Yes . Well , we're very high up . Yes

53:35, Steven isn't afraid of that . Neither

53:37are we . Here we are , right on the

53:39mountain . And you can see the limestone

53:42here . I'll show you now . Let's go here .

53:45First of all , Stenbeck House faces us

53:48here . Yes , it's a very beautiful

53:50building , especially from below , when

53:51you look at it . The

53:52>> Prime Minister greets guests on the

53:54balcony there .

53:55>> Yes , that's right . And you can get to

53:59this very balcony on open days , sit at

54:02the cabinet table , and so on . The

54:05Patkul Staircase goes down . And people

54:08used to go up here because they were

54:10going to the provincial court . That's

54:12why all these street names are

54:13connected with the court . And down

54:15below we have Schneli Park , uh , the

54:18gardener's park , the last name was

54:20Schneli , who did that . And about half a

54:24kilometer remains from the city moats .

54:27Now they're filled with water . These

54:30are ponds , these are walking areas .

54:32People really like to relax there ,

54:34there are walkways , benches , and the

54:36city hosts various festivals , and our

54:38museums also host them . But we're right

54:41on the mountain . And the fact that this

54:43is limestone is obvious here . You see

54:44how uneven the edge is .

54:46>> Below us is this very mountain . These

54:49are layers of limestone . The deepest

54:51layer is probably 55 layers of

54:53limestone . So our scientists said

54:56they've found 55 layers in a row . And

54:59you can see that , uh , the rock juts out

55:01from different sides . If you walk

55:03around , you'll see it here and there .

55:06And the builders , uh , of the defensive

55:08structure , they were already building

55:11the wall , reinforcing all these walls

55:13with various relieving arches . And only

55:16later , at the end , at the beginning of

55:18the 20th century , did the staircase

55:20appear , so that it was easier to walk .

55:22Now the staircase has been restored ,

55:24and you can go straight down to the

55:26lower town . But we'll take a different

55:28route . The Totet is new . Yes , they

55:32certainly have it , you see , they're

55:34pouring Van Natalin . And how could we

55:35do without Van Natalin ?

55:37>> Oh , by the way , for the centenary of

55:39the republic ,

55:41>> let's say , I conducted a survey

55:43>> among readers of the Estonian version ,

55:45and the Russian version . Name the most

55:48immediate associations that come to you

55:51with the word Estonia .

55:53>> And in the top five were the sea ,

55:55forest , swamp . You should definitely do

55:58a segment about Estonian swamps . It's

56:00simply love , simply

56:03>> beauty . And 25 % of Estonia's territory

56:06is swamp . Why not ? Both have noted this

56:10. And then comes Van Natalin . And while

56:13the Estonian audience meant Van Natalin

56:16as the old city , the Russian audience

56:19preferred Van Natalin as the Ker . But

56:22they were both present in both versions

56:25. Yes . I mean , of course , there was

56:27black bread , and sprats , of course , and

56:29famous people there , people everyone

56:31knows , like Georg Kotz , composers ,

56:36chess players , everyone . But in the

56:39beginning , there was nature , right ?

56:41>> Look , yes , you can order right here ,

56:44the guys from here take orders . This

56:47new place is called tête . It's a

56:50French name , but everyone knows , yeah .

56:52That's it . It's tête . And they can

56:54serve you , yeah . Damn , you

56:55>> might as well go there . Well , they say

56:57it's very tasty . We'll have to try it .

57:00>> Yeah , we'll try it sometime .

57:02>> Definitely . Okay ,

57:07>> I got it .

57:08>> Yes , yes , Stephen is here again . You

57:10see , we're on the right track . Yes ,

57:14they have nuts here too , but they're

57:15taking a break today . Yes , yes . We've

57:18>> come to the Danish king's garden .

57:21Stephen is with us . Everything is fine .

57:23Up ahead we see the Nikolskaya Church ,

57:26or Nigustaya . And it's not a church now

57:28, but a branch of an art museum . It's

57:31very beautiful inside . I also recommend

57:33going there . There's a modern elevator

57:36there now . You can go up there , where

57:38those windows are , and look out over

57:40the old city in all four directions ,

57:42even in the cold , busy weather . And

57:45here we see the defensive wall and the

57:48battlements . Even up there , there are

57:51young , attractive people walking around

57:54—

57:54>> yes , they were helping them with their

57:57hands . And once upon a time , the guards

58:00, naturally , moved from the Short Leg

58:02Tower to the Maiden Tower and

58:04Kikendekök . Kikendekök . Let's take a

58:06look at the kitchen . Here we see three

58:08monks . One is asking , another is

58:11waiting , and the third is praying . So ,

58:14this is the very place where , well ,

58:17there's a theory , a battle took place .

58:22The Battle of Lindanise , that same year

58:24of 1219 , on June 15th , when the battle

58:27took place between the troops of the

58:30Danish king and local Estonian troops .

58:34Initially , when the ship's fleet

58:36arrived , it was clear that , well ,

58:38nothing could be done . Such a huge army

58:41was a huge army for them . And when they

58:43learned that they had to accept some

58:45incomprehensible faith , well , what

58:46could they do ? They were all pagans ,

58:48after all . The elders decided , well ,

58:51you know how they joke about Estonians

58:54being slow . No , I'll say that's wrong .

58:57They think , well done , they think .

58:59>> And so they decided that strategically

59:01it was easier to agree . Several people

59:04converted to Catholicism , and the camp

59:06was located somewhere around here . The

59:08Danish king's military camp . And the

59:11Estonians gathered and a few days later

59:13attacked unexpectedly . And they , of

59:15course , had the upper hand . They began

59:17to win . According to legend , the Danish

59:20king prayed to God . The bishop , the

59:22monks who came with them , all the

59:25soldiers began to pray . And a flag fell

59:27from the open heavens at the feet of

59:30the Danish king . A red cloth with a

59:32white cross in the middle . This Brok ,

59:35the power of Denmark , the official flag

59:38of Denmark , the Danish kingdom , was won

59:41on June 15 , 1219 , at the Battle of

59:44Lindoni . That's

59:45>> it .

59:46>> So it's a historical fact , there's no

59:47getting away from it .

59:49>> And that's why we have two coats of

59:50arms . One large coat of arms of the

59:53city is three leopard lions , and the

59:55second small coat of arms is the Danish

59:57flag . That is , it was acquired here .

59:59Therefore , this is the garden of the

1:00:01Danish king . Naturally , these figures

1:00:03were unveiled for the flag's eight

1:00:05hundredth anniversary . In 2018 , the

1:00:08Danish Queen Margaret arrived on her

1:00:11royal standard . There was a celebration

1:00:13here .

1:00:14>> Yep .

1:00:14>> 800 years of the Danish flag . There .

1:00:19>> But from here , you can quickly descend

1:00:21to the city of Reval . We were in

1:00:24Domberg , and now we're going to Reval .

1:00:28It was later , after Nizhny ceased to

1:00:30follow the laws of the Hanseatic League

1:00:32, that the entire city essentially

1:00:34became Reval , or rather , Reval , already

1:00:37at that time . Initially , Reval was down

1:00:41below , a city of merchants , and Domberg

1:00:44was a city of nobles . Down below , a

1:00:47city council of local merchants of

1:00:50German origin governed . And the

1:00:53burgomaster sat , and the aldermen sat

1:00:54in the town hall . And at the top , the

1:00:57governor ruled . And the governor was in

1:00:59charge of all the land . And the city of

1:01:01Treval lived by its own laws , by the

1:01:03Hanseatic laws . And when a new governor

1:01:07arrived , a representative of the

1:01:09country , its owner , he would go down to

1:01:11the town hall and receive

1:01:14>> permission to operate , so to speak . But

1:01:17this is a bit of a political

1:01:18role-playing game , of course , but

1:01:20that's how it was . No , they went up ,

1:01:22and he went down . The money was below ,

1:01:24despite the fact that the power was at

1:01:26the top . Yes . Let's go down .

1:01:30>> There . And from here , well , oh , that

1:01:32funny-looking guy is sitting there . If

1:01:33you lean over there , that's the old

1:01:35king standing there . Let's take a look

1:01:37at him and then we'll go . He's got a

1:01:41feather stuck in his nose . Stephen has

1:01:43really gotten insolent . He's always

1:01:45following us .

1:01:47>> Yes . Let's look down . Over there . There

1:01:51he is , the old king . And he has a

1:01:53Danish flag right on his chin . This

1:01:56sculpture has been there since the

1:01:57seventies . And then this construction ,

1:02:00it's called the flag came off .

1:02:03>> Yeah .

1:02:03>> This is first prize , and second prize

1:02:07is a sculpture called Troy , which our

1:02:10students at the Art Academy won . And

1:02:13the competition was organized by the

1:02:15Danish Embassy just in time for this

1:02:17anniversary year dedicated to the

1:02:19Danish flag . The Art Academy is now

1:02:22visible from here , we'll be inspecting

1:02:24the site , that's for

1:02:26>> sure .

1:02:27>> So we'll go down the very , well , this

1:02:32old descent and ascent . This street was

1:02:36once even called Submonts under the

1:02:37Mountain in old chronicles . So we're

1:02:40really going down to our lower town

1:02:47>> past the short-leg tower , along this

1:02:50ancient pavement . This street used to

1:02:53be a pedestrian crossing , but people

1:02:54didn't drive here . It's very steep . Now

1:02:58they've built us a staircase , and you

1:03:01could , of course , go up and down the

1:03:04long leg by horse or cart . But there

1:03:08were gates , and at the gates , a tax was

1:03:11collected for this move .

1:03:13>> There . Here , two streets join on the

1:03:17left . On the left , yes , is an ancient

1:03:22door that was closed and in the evening

1:03:25ensured peace for those living in the

1:03:28lower town , because upstairs , the

1:03:31nobles very often sent their stewards

1:03:34to look for runaway serfs . Aha .

1:03:37>> Yes . And in the city of Lower Town ,

1:03:39there was law . The city lived by the

1:03:41Gandian laws . Everything was prescribed

1:03:44there : how to live , with whom to live

1:03:45and why to live , and what to wear and

1:03:46all the rest . And , uh , the city air

1:03:49gave freedom . If you lived a year and a

1:03:53day in Lower Town , you became a free

1:03:55man . Naturally , the serfs who fled from

1:03:58the difficult life on the estates , in

1:04:00the manors , the German harrows were not

1:04:02kind to them .

1:04:04>> So they hid there . But they were free

1:04:06labor for the , uh , merchants and for

1:04:09the craftsmen who lived there . That's

1:04:12why sometimes stewards or assistants

1:04:14would go around , especially at night ,

1:04:16checking to see if any runaway serfs

1:04:18were warming themselves by the fire .

1:04:21And generally , if the door was closed ,

1:04:23no one bothered anyone else . In reality

1:04:26, it was , of course , a fortification ,

1:04:28meaning a defensive structure ,

1:04:31>> but the door was rivet-boarded on the

1:04:33other side because they could pound on

1:04:35it , yes , with spears and swords . And

1:04:44during the war years , of course , it was

1:04:46an additional line of defense .

1:04:48Portcullises were also lowered . There

1:04:51was a door , and of course , a tower with

1:04:53archers or soldiers also kept watch .

1:04:57But these were internal towers , these

1:04:59were gate towers . This was also the

1:05:01long-legged tower .

1:05:02>> Although we know that all the other

1:05:04towers were external , yes , external

1:05:05defense . Well , the probationary period

1:05:07was so short , just one year . Yes ,

1:05:09that's

1:05:10>> one day , yes . But that was , oh , in the

1:05:13Middle Ages , that was a long time .

1:05:15>> I mean , yes , that was a short life .

1:05:17>> Yes , it was a short life , that's for

1:05:19sure .

1:05:20>> There . Well , now it's a very

1:05:21Instagrammable place . Everyone takes

1:05:23photos here . We'll go down , turn around

1:05:25, and see how beautiful it is . There

1:05:27are various souvenir shops here . And

1:05:30they're mostly made by applied artists .

1:05:33So , it's junk , yes , but these are

1:05:35genuinely handmade items , which is not

1:05:37surprising , because there's an applied

1:05:40arts museum nearby , another branch of

1:05:42the art museum .

1:05:44>> There . And here , of course , we have

1:05:46street art , of course , there is

1:05:48>> some , yes . That's also an interesting

1:05:52point . See , it says it touches the bush

1:05:55. Yes .

1:05:56>> So , at first , there was some lady

1:05:58painted here , and there was some

1:05:59controversy : is this really art ? Is it

1:06:02really possible to paint like this ?

1:06:04Then some guys painted this stencil

1:06:06picture on a blank wall and signed it .

1:06:08Well , now it's art . Well , now , of

1:06:11course , there's been an addition around

1:06:14,

1:06:14>> yes . From here , by the way , you can

1:06:17clearly see why tourists like to take

1:06:19photos here , especially in groups like

1:06:21this . They make very beautiful

1:06:24>> shots .

1:06:25>> I draw , therefore , I exist .

1:06:29>> Yes . Yes .

1:06:30>> Marusya , show me . It's very interesting

1:06:32.

1:06:34>> And in the tower now , there's a room

1:06:38where , uh , our little Hortus Music

1:06:42group practices . There . And by the way ,

1:06:45we walked past there and switched to

1:06:47Stephen so joyfully . And in general ,

1:06:50this corner in the Danish king's garden

1:06:52, it's very ghostly . And once upon a

1:06:55time , in a girl — not a girl's , but in

1:06:58the head of a short leg in the thirties

1:07:00, not so far away , not so long ago ,

1:07:03less than 100 years ago — the most

1:07:05powerful mediums of Europe gathered .

1:07:08Uh-huh .

1:07:09>> That is , yes , yes , almost like a

1:07:11bictorasens , they summoned various

1:07:13spirits . All this is already described

1:07:15in the chronicle , not so distant ,

1:07:17because the place is somehow

1:07:18energetically fractured . And sometimes

1:07:21you can even photograph a ghost there ,

1:07:23as long as there aren't too many people

1:07:26around , and various plays of light make

1:07:28this possible . There . But we went down

1:07:32>> and found ourselves at the Church of

1:07:33the Negulist already below . We could

1:07:35see it from above . And it was very

1:07:39popular in its time . They were showing

1:07:42off the duke's mummy .

1:07:43>> Oh , we could have so many stories . And

1:07:46this is not a fiction , it really was ,

1:07:49uh , such a story . And it was described

1:07:53in various , uh , magazine articles and

1:07:55newspapers . And Vyazemsky came here ,

1:07:59and Pushkin's parents were vacationing

1:08:02at the waters in Rebel and also came to

1:08:06see the duke and Belacroix's mummy .

1:08:09It's a long story , I might tell it some

1:08:11other time . At the end of the war ,

1:08:21>> he was sent under house arrest . He was

1:08:24actually one of Peter's officers , but

1:08:27he couldn't handle his Russian soldiers

1:08:30. Anyway , before that , he served

1:08:32elsewhere . And he was eventually

1:08:34captured . And the Swedes sent him here

1:08:36under house arrest . And he's a duke , I

1:08:38like to carouse . He has a title , but no

1:08:42money . And he , in fact , borrowed a lot

1:08:44of money . And when he died , it's

1:08:46unknown from what , well , we suspect he

1:08:49drank heavily and died , otherwise there

1:08:51was no money to store him , only debts .

1:08:54So , uh , the priests decided to wait for

1:08:58one of his relatives or somehow find

1:09:02the money .

1:09:03>> They hid him in the basement and forgot

1:09:05about him until they

1:09:06>> found him . Many years later , more than

1:09:08100 years had passed , they were doing

1:09:10an inventory by chance and found the

1:09:11coffin with this body , and it had

1:09:13become unified . That's why we think

1:09:15that he probably drank heavily , got

1:09:17drunk . I'm sure of it .

1:09:19>> Well , without thinking twice , they

1:09:20decorated him with a duke and put a wig

1:09:22on him . There's a photograph of this

1:09:24mummy , a kind of pre-herotype that has

1:09:26been preserved .

1:09:27>> They made a glass cover and showed it

1:09:29off for a pretty penny . Basically , he

1:09:32earned his burial , yes . Then , naturally

1:09:38, during the imperial era , I think it

1:09:41was Nicholas I , under him , there was an

1:09:43order that this was unchristian and it

1:09:45was time to bury the man . When you

1:09:48enter the museum , you go downstairs to

1:09:50go to the cloakroom , and the first

1:09:52tombstone is right in front of you , and

1:09:55it says in Russian , among other things ,

1:09:57that he is buried here . There . But

1:10:01there were many different curiosities

1:10:03there , so St. Nicholas isn't just

1:10:05associated with historical moments —

1:10:07the church was on the grounds , but also

1:10:10with the merchant court of German

1:10:12merchants , the very ones the Danish

1:10:14king invited here as his financial

1:10:16support . And so the development of the

1:10:20merchant class took this path , with

1:10:23German merchants rising a notch higher

1:10:25than everyone else . That's why we

1:10:28always talk about who ran the , um ,

1:10:31magistrate . Members of a large merchant

1:10:33guild were admitted to the magistrate .

1:10:35People of German descent , who had a

1:10:37house , a ship , and a wife , were

1:10:39accepted there . While you're unmarried ,

1:10:42you join the brotherhood of the

1:10:43Blackheads . And once you're a

1:10:45respectable person , responsible —

1:10:47that's right — then you can run the

1:10:49city . That's it . Actually , the site of

1:10:51the German merchant yard was here . And

1:10:53here's the Nikolskaya Church , because

1:10:55Nikolai is the patron saint of trade

1:10:57and navigation .

1:10:58>> There . And we've also come to an

1:10:59interesting place . The street is called

1:11:01Ratoskayevo . And this is the street of

1:11:03the Wheel Well . And we have a monument

1:11:06to the wheel well . The well itself

1:11:08hasn't survived , but it was here . And

1:11:11by 1980 , they decided that we needed to

1:11:13make a beautiful addition to the street

1:11:15and make a replica . That's why we say

1:11:18that we have the only monument to the

1:11:20wheel well in the world . Just look . The

1:11:24place is still so , ah , unusual ,

1:11:27mystical , yes , because they tell all

1:11:30sorts of stories about this well .

1:11:33Witches gather here , and wishes come

1:11:36true . You just have to shout your name

1:11:38in the opposite direction , throw a coin

1:11:40in , and you'll get back gold . But the

1:11:42most important thing is this mystical

1:11:44house . According to probably the oldest

1:11:50legend and the favorite stories of city

1:11:52guides , the devil celebrated his

1:11:55wedding in this house . And where he did

1:11:58it , the room is walled up , the window

1:12:00doesn't open and it's impossible to get

1:12:03in . Which window do you think , Irina ,

1:12:05doesn't open ?

1:12:06>> There , yes , that very

1:12:09>> dark one . There , dark , yes , you see ,

1:12:11it's completely motionless . Ah , well ,

1:12:15now there are apartments in the whole

1:12:17building . The most expensive apartments

1:12:22are the ones next to the room where you

1:12:23can get your adrenaline rush . There .

1:12:27Well , according to legend , a jeweler

1:12:28lived there , Kulaseppa Street is nearby

1:12:30, right there is a jewelry store . And

1:12:33when he went bankrupt , he decided to go

1:12:34and settle accounts with his life . And

1:12:39on the way he met a man in a red cloak

1:12:40with a hunchback , who asked : " Where are

1:12:40you going ? Young man , what happened ? "

1:12:45He told him his story . He said : " Let's

1:12:48agree , I'll give you money , but you

1:12:50will rent me your room for one day , for

1:12:52one night . " He said : " Yes , of course ,

1:12:55how else ? " But there's one condition :

1:12:57don't look in , no matter what happens ,

1:12:59or you'll regret it . " They agreed . And

1:13:02he said to his servant : " Bankruptcy

1:13:04doesn't mean you don't have a servant .

1:13:06There's a servant too , yes , that you

1:13:08can't look . "

1:13:08>> And so in the evening it began . The

1:13:11room is high , you have to go up the

1:13:13stairs . People come , both young and old

1:13:16, both ugly and beautiful , and healthy

1:13:19and lame , they come and come and come

1:13:21and come . The Masters read Margarita .

1:13:24That's about the same . That's it .

1:13:26>> And then at 12 o'clock the door slammed

1:13:28and it began . Noise , hubbub , music , the

1:13:30clinking of glasses and everything else

1:13:32. I really wanted to watch , but the guy

1:13:34decided that no , it was still scary .

1:13:37The servant could not stand it while

1:13:38the master , having drunk beer , slept .

1:13:40The servant climbed onto the roof ,

1:13:42looked in the window and fell , broke .

1:13:44What he saw there , no one knows .

1:13:47>> In the morning he opened the door , a

1:13:49clean room , no traces , nothing . And in

1:13:51the center is a bag of money . He opened

1:13:55it , looked at the coins in there , and

1:13:56as soon as he put his hand in and

1:13:58touched them , they crumbled to dust .

1:14:01And then he got upset , He started

1:14:03screaming , ran away , and they say he

1:14:05vanished from the city , went crazy , and

1:14:07no one saw him again . And people

1:14:10realized that the devil was celebrating

1:14:11his wedding there . They

1:14:13>> walled up the walls , walled up the

1:14:15windows , installed a false window that

1:14:18never opens , and that's it . And then no

1:14:21one can get in there anymore . And the

1:14:24apartment owners are the only ones

1:14:25making money from this . These are , of

1:14:28course , urban legends , as you

1:14:30understand .

1:14:31>> But every fairy tale has a grain of

1:14:34truth .

1:14:34>> Who knows , maybe , but in any case , it's

1:14:38better not to let young men out here

1:14:42alone late at night .

1:14:44>> Got it ,

1:14:44>> right ? You never know .

1:14:46>> Yes .

1:14:48>> This is Kundari Street . There have

1:14:52always been taverns here . Now Rhaus is

1:14:56also here , and some new restaurants and

1:14:58cafes have appeared here . And on that

1:15:02side , the neighborhood was badly

1:15:04damaged during 1944 , during the bombing

1:15:06. That's why some of the houses here ,

1:15:10like the restaurant , were completely

1:15:12rebuilt . And on the left Some of the

1:15:16houses are still ancient , and this is

1:15:19especially evident from the pointed

1:15:22roofs or these little gates , yes , well ,

1:15:25there's no other way to say it on the

1:15:27roofs , because they're cargo mechanisms

1:15:30.

1:15:31>> And earlier , merchants in the lower

1:15:33town , they lived on the ground floor .

1:15:35All the other floors were , uh ,

1:15:37warehouses . A high basement , goods were

1:15:40always loaded there . And a second ,

1:15:44third , even a fourth . A cargo beam

1:15:47protruded from above , a rope with a

1:15:49hook was lowered , and goods were raised

1:15:51from the high porch . The lower part was

1:15:54called the first living room — that's

1:15:56dile , German words for living room . And

1:15:58Dorns was called the second , private

1:16:00part .

1:16:02>> In the first part , the merchant could

1:16:04communicate with his partners . Guests

1:16:07came , it was quite open . There was

1:16:10always an open hearth , which heated

1:16:12this part of the house . And already in

1:16:15Dorns there were bedrooms , there were

1:16:17living quarters , where only the family

1:16:20went . And they were heated from below

1:16:22by a kind of heater system , a

1:16:24hippocaust . Downstairs there was a room

1:16:26with With stones . And when the wood was

1:16:29loaded and burned down , these stones

1:16:31would heat up and radiate the heat

1:16:33upward . And in the floor , on the first

1:16:36floor , there were these holes and plugs

1:16:38. Hot when you close it , cool when you

1:16:41open it . Almost central heating . Yes .

1:16:44>> And , of course , since it was a merchant

1:16:46city , with artisans , yes , but most

1:16:48importantly , merchants lived here , all

1:16:50available space was used for warehouses

1:16:52. Moreover , very important goods passed

1:16:55through us in transit . The most

1:16:57important of them was salt . Why the

1:16:59most important ? Because it was

1:17:02essential . This salt road passed

1:17:07through Reval . And here , according to

1:17:10the warehouse rights that local

1:17:12merchants received from the Danish king

1:17:14in the 10th century , the goods remained

1:17:17for several days and , well , you could

1:17:19say that local merchants bought at

1:17:21wholesale prices back then , and then

1:17:23resold them at a normal price . And they

1:17:27used this earned money to build houses ,

1:17:29fortress walls , fortress towers .

1:17:32Therefore They say that Tallinn is

1:17:34built on salt , but it's not there , it's

1:17:36in money , yes , it was expressed . And

1:17:38here we have come out onto the main

1:17:40market square . Now it's called the Town

1:17:42Hall . And if you look at the end wall

1:17:45of the Town Hall , you can see the

1:17:46loading mechanism from above , of course

1:17:48, the attic of the Town Hall . And it

1:17:50was built in 1404 in the form in which

1:17:54we see it now . Before that , it was

1:17:57lower , already without arcade vaults ,

1:17:59but in 1404 , the beginning of the 15th

1:18:01century . This is the heyday of the

1:18:05Hanseatic city of Reval . And everyone

1:18:08who came here , they must have

1:18:10understood what a rich city they had

1:18:12arrived in , because such a town hall ,

1:18:14such a sea gate ran along Long Street ,

1:18:16where there were luxurious merchant

1:18:19houses . The enormous Church of Olvist ,

1:18:22other churches . It was impressive . That

1:18:25is , it immediately said that you had to

1:18:27do business with these people . Here .

1:18:29Well , here , the attic was also used for

1:18:32storage . Down below in Wine was stored

1:18:35in the cellars because currency was so

1:18:38liquid . That's it . And all the other

1:18:41houses around there . A lot of these

1:18:44houses have been rebuilt now , but they

1:18:46were all warehouses . There's no way

1:18:48around it . Let's go to the town halls .

1:18:53Now , of course , it's the most popular

1:18:55tourist spot . And in the center , you

1:18:58see these flowerbeds , our planting

1:19:01areas . This isn't the first year , it's

1:19:03the second or even the third . Time

1:19:05flies , so you don't keep track , but

1:19:07it's definitely not the first year .

1:19:09>> And the city decided that the souvenir

1:19:11stalls are a Christmas market . And a

1:19:14few years ago , we had the most

1:19:15beautiful Christmas market in Europe .

1:19:18That's the title it earned . And then ,

1:19:20like in the Middle Ages , we stood for ,

1:19:22well , democracy . Let's say you're a

1:19:26rich person , you're a poor person , but

1:19:28for you , the city law is absolutely the

1:19:31same . And there in the distance , you

1:19:34can see the spire of the Pühavaimu

1:19:35Church , right ? And there's a bell up

1:19:38there . It's a replica of the bell , it

1:19:41was installed at the beginning of this

1:19:44century , because after a fire The bell

1:19:46cracked a little when they put out the

1:19:49fire , and it's downstairs on the first

1:19:51floor of the church , it's standing

1:19:53there . And upstairs there's an exact

1:19:57replica , and along the edge it's

1:19:58written , if you translate it , something

1:20:01like this : " And I ring for everyone

1:20:03equally faithfully : for the maid and

1:20:05the mistress , for the servants the

1:20:07master . " Well , or vice versa , for the

1:20:09master servant .

1:20:11>> And no one is to blame for this . No one

1:20:13will blame me for this , because the

1:20:15laws are the same for everyone . Well ,

1:20:18if we move into modern times , no matter

1:20:20what your wallet is , you can sit here

1:20:22and relax , get a cup of coffee , yes , a

1:20:25glass and relax . And next to you , there

1:20:28might be a person who arrived in a

1:20:30Bugatti , also sitting . It doesn't

1:20:31matter . For everyone , this is a place

1:20:34of rest , a place of relaxation . And

1:20:36behind the old town hall from the 10th

1:20:39century . And when UNESCO took our old

1:20:42city under protection , including the

1:20:44town hall , and the town hall pharmacy

1:20:47opposite ( 1422 ) , and the network of

1:20:50streets from the 10th century that has

1:20:52been preserved , and a huge number of

1:20:55houses , and everything that has

1:20:57survived from the 10th and 10th

1:20:59centuries — towers , walls — has made it

1:21:02possible for the whole planet to take

1:21:05it under protection and be proud of the

1:21:07fact that we have preserved such a

1:21:08piece of the Middle Ages . There . Well ,

1:21:11and here , of course , rich people sat ,

1:21:14dragons , of course . Oh , right . And you

1:21:17see , first of all , two flags . The flag

1:21:19of Estonia , of course , and the flag of

1:21:21the city of Tallinn . Three blue stripes

1:21:24on a white background . Tourists say

1:21:26it's Greece , no , it's Tallinn . If you

1:21:29look above the entrance , uh , the old

1:21:31portal entrance to the town hall , at

1:21:32the top is the coat of arms , this large

1:21:34coat of arms , yes , there are three

1:21:36leopard lions . Remember our

1:21:38straightforward logic ? Three blue lions

1:21:40, three blue stripes on the flag .

1:21:43>> Logical . This is that very symbol . And

1:21:47here are five windows — this is the

1:21:48civic hall , where feasts , guest

1:21:50meetings , and various important events

1:21:52took place . Further on , three windows

1:21:55and an icon of the Day of Judgement .

1:21:57This is the courtroom , and there were

1:22:00two windows where The treasurer , that

1:22:02is , he counted the city's money . There .

1:22:04Well , and down below , of course , there

1:22:06used to be shops there , the most

1:22:08expensive commercial area , and so on .

1:22:10And now the entrance is a little

1:22:12further . Firstly , you can go up to the

1:22:14tower for a separate ticket , if you buy

1:22:16one . But next to the entrance to the

1:22:18tower there is a third dragon . There

1:22:20are two here , and these are drains ,

1:22:22that is , they drain excess water . Plus ,

1:22:26of course , there is a belief that if

1:22:28you want money , you need to go and

1:22:29catch the dragon's saliva . It will drip

1:22:32here . After all , they were the ones who

1:22:34guarded the city treasury . So your hand

1:22:37will turn golden , or you'll find money ,

1:22:40>> or they'll give you a higher salary , or

1:22:42maybe even a bonus . Who knows . If

1:22:45anyone walks around with their hand

1:22:46outstretched , they know this legend ,

1:22:48>> invented by our Tallinn guides . And

1:22:51here is the third dragon . A very

1:22:53popular place , where you find yourself

1:22:55in the Middle Ages and they might even

1:22:57scold you . And if you want a pickle ,

1:22:59take a stick with With a nail , go find

1:23:01it yourself . Take it out of the barrel .

1:23:04That's it . What a place where you can ,

1:23:06by the way , well , eat deliciously , but

1:23:08in a medieval style .

1:23:10>> There . And opposite is a pharmacy . The

1:23:14pharmacy is 604 years old . It's the

1:23:16oldest pharmacy in Europe that has

1:23:19never ceased to operate . There has

1:23:21always been a pharmacy here . And we

1:23:23would probably say that it was a kind

1:23:25of colonial store , except for the

1:23:27pharmacy , because they sold all the new

1:23:29goods there ,

1:23:30>> absolutely all the new goods .

1:23:33Everything new that came in would be

1:23:35the gunpowder of some new system , yes ,

1:23:37new , and

1:23:41>> new , I don't know , some kind of

1:23:42gunpowder mixture , be it office

1:23:44supplies , be it coffee or new medicine .

1:23:46Everything first went to this pharmacy ,

1:23:48the town hall pharmacy . The inside is

1:23:51also very interesting . You can go in

1:23:53there and see what they used to treat

1:23:56with . Well , there , besides herbs and

1:24:00traditional things , yes , there is also

1:24:04horn powder , unicorn powder , and

1:24:06pickled earthworms , and dried feces

1:24:09Dogs in the sun for stomach pain and

1:24:13singed hedgehog needles for silky hair .

1:24:17And what's not there . But in any case ,

1:24:20it's very interesting . To the question ,

1:24:23did it help ? I answer : it helped ,

1:24:26because if a person believes , help him ,

1:24:27and if it's also expensive , then you

1:24:29really believe . In the Middle Ages ,

1:24:32this worked well . Well , past the

1:24:34pharmacy , you can walk along the

1:24:36shortest street and come to a large

1:24:37merchant guild . Let's go and take a

1:24:39look there . This is a very important

1:24:42point .

1:24:43>> In the Lower Town , many medieval houses

1:24:45have been preserved . Uh , we won't find

1:24:48so many old houses upstairs . Yeah .

1:24:56There is a good , solid house here , yes ,

1:24:59the facades were rebuilt , but a lot of

1:25:01the old ones have survived , and that's

1:25:04why our lower town is so medieval after

1:25:07all .

1:25:08>> Let's go there ,

1:25:09>> Marisa , by the way , our first date was

1:25:12here . Wow ,

1:25:15>> huh ? You see , it's been around for a

1:25:18long time , I understand . But the cafe

1:25:21is actually It's cool . And their owner

1:25:24is so authentic . He's all gray . He has

1:25:27this little braid on his beard now . And

1:25:29they have their own cat here . Yes . Yes .

1:25:32He's always here .

1:25:33>> That's why we have three cats . Got

1:25:35>> it .

1:25:37>> Good .

1:25:38>> Yes . Well , here we went to the shortest

1:25:40street . It's called Bulochny Proyezd .

1:25:44>> Yes . Sai . And about 50 meters on the

1:25:47narrowest we were , and now on the

1:25:49shortest . And here , of course , is also

1:25:51probably the most Instagrammable place

1:25:53in the lower town , right ? And a small

1:25:56house , which , in fact , you could say ,

1:25:57has four floors , because there's a

1:25:59basement with a sauna , small apartments

1:26:00right under the roof , a bedroom there .

1:26:03There . And here there's also an

1:26:05interesting souvenir shop with original

1:26:07works . And this little house near the

1:26:10church . - um , there was clearly some

1:26:14kind of medieval corruption , because

1:26:16Ratman couldn't have gotten such a

1:26:18thing only through third parties

1:26:20directly . Well , in general , there's an

1:26:23interesting story about how it was this

1:26:25house was built . And there have always

1:26:27been cafes on this street , it always

1:26:29smelled delicious here , and it still

1:26:31does . I remember in my childhood there

1:26:34was an ice cream cafe here , and now

1:26:35there’s a cafe like this , they’ve

1:26:37been around for many years , too , with

1:26:39very tasty desserts . And so we’re

1:26:42walking past the Church of the Holy

1:26:43Spirit . The church was also Catholic ,

1:26:48now it’s Lutheran , active , with organ

1:26:50performances on Monday evenings . That

1:26:53is , they probably have , yes , today is

1:26:55Monday , so in the evening , probably at

1:26:576:00 , you can come in . It’s a free

1:27:00event .

1:27:01>> So. And we’re right on the square in

1:27:03front of the historical museum . Well ,

1:27:06now it’s a large merchant’s guild ,

1:27:08it was a large merchant’s guild . And

1:27:10there , you see at the very top it says

1:27:131410 , yes , the same 15th century , the

1:27:16very dawn , a huge house , built not for

1:27:19housing , but , naturally , for goods .

1:27:22There were alcoholic drinks downstairs

1:27:25and upstairs , and grain , and everything

1:27:28else , and salt . But on the ground floor

1:27:31there are large halls where they

1:27:32gathered warriors . By the way , they

1:27:35traditionally had these regular , uh ,

1:27:37gatherings , yes , meetings . To do on an

1:27:40empty stomach in the morning . Why

1:27:43>> on an empty stomach ? Well , so as not to

1:27:45chat too much , to decide , and then they

1:27:46went their separate ways . A very good

1:27:48thing . There you go . Well , and here ,

1:27:50behind us , are the oldest clocks in our

1:27:52city . We've already seen different ones

1:27:54today .

1:27:55>> Oh , yes ,

1:27:56>> which also show the correct time . These

1:27:59are wooden ones . And , uh , time doesn't

1:28:04stop . Time doesn't stop . Life changes ,

1:28:08history changes . Well , thank God that

1:28:11something remains that reminds us of

1:28:13the past . Because when you know the

1:28:16past , it's easier for you to live today

1:28:19, and your future is probably clearer .

1:28:23It's clear what kind of relationship

1:28:25you should have with your neighbors ,

1:28:27how you need to help in difficult times

1:28:29, because merchants , for them , the word

1:28:31" merchant " was always very important .

1:28:34Yeah . And they pulled each other out of

1:28:37various situations . Well , of course ,

1:28:39they competed , but that wasn't the

1:28:41worst thing . The worst thing was to

1:28:43survive some kind of terrible time , yes

1:28:45. There you go . Well , everyone survived

1:28:47. Another interesting point , Let's , I

1:28:50don't know , maybe we should even wrap

1:28:53up the story here , yes , of today's walk

1:28:56, because you can walk around our city

1:28:58at least three more times , just to see

1:29:01everything . We didn't go to the

1:29:04Virovsky Gate . We didn't go to the

1:29:06dirty gate . Fat Margaret Tower . My

1:29:10pleasure . And here we should recharge

1:29:13ourselves with , uh , son . Well , we

1:29:15didn't catch the dragon , but we need to

1:29:17recharge ourselves with material

1:29:19well-being , right ?

1:29:20>> To do that , you need to go to the door ,

1:29:22the

1:29:23>> door of the history museum .

1:29:25>> Okay , well , first of all ,

1:29:27>> there are threshold stones here . And in

1:29:30the past , these stones always had roses

1:29:32on them — this is modern history , this

1:29:34was back in 1980 , when the restoration

1:29:35was underway . Roses are a symbol of

1:29:38silence . It means the deal wasn't

1:29:40disclosed and all that . Basically , it's

1:29:43all connected with merchant honor . Now

1:29:45there's a modern interpretation , but

1:29:47it's a rose . And in the past , a trade

1:29:49mark , a guild mark , a union mark , was

1:29:50always put there . It was like a house

1:29:53number . But There's an ancient door

1:29:55preserved here . So , we have a 15

1:29:57th-century building . The door is even

1:29:59older , it came here as a gift . And the

1:30:02richest people in this city held on to

1:30:05these knockers that worked like bells .

1:30:08>> For many , many hundreds of years . What

1:30:09does that mean ? That they gave away

1:30:11their energy ,

1:30:12>> right ?

1:30:12>> And now we'll take a little bit .

1:30:14>> It works like this : you need to rub

1:30:16Leo's nose , but you don't need to wish

1:30:18for 100 , 500 million . It doesn't work

1:30:21that way . If you need 28,000 to pay off

1:30:24something or to buy something , that's

1:30:26the amount you say . Uh-huh .

1:30:29>> Okay ,

1:30:29>> we've thought about it . Let's go . I

1:30:31need something too .

1:30:33>> Yeah , let's go ,

1:30:35>> three noses at a time . And here , of

1:30:37course , there's an inscription in some

1:30:39old German that says , God protects the

1:30:41one who enters the house and the one

1:30:43who is in this house . Well , come on ,

1:30:45darling , get to work . Come on , come on .

1:30:46Let's rub those like this .

1:30:47>> Like this . Yeah .

1:30:48>> And what hand ? It doesn't matter .

1:30:49>> It doesn't matter which hand . The main

1:30:50thing is to ask the amount . I'll do it

1:30:52>> with two .

1:30:53>> Yes , you can do it with two .

1:30:54>> He can , yes , right away , lose his nose .

1:30:59Well , thank you and I accept .

1:31:01>> Yes ,

1:31:04>> everything , everything will be fine .

1:31:07>> Well , in general , you can go in , buy a

1:31:09ticket and go to the historical museums

1:31:11, look at these historical buildings .

1:31:14Well , I think that's all for today .

1:31:17>> Irina , thank you so much for such a

1:31:19wonderful tour . As you said , we only

1:31:22managed to see a small part today . Very

1:31:26interesting , beautiful , delicious and

1:31:28soulful .

1:31:29>> And soulful . Thank you very much . I

1:31:32hope that this is not the last part of

1:31:34this format for us , and we will meet

1:31:37again and film many interesting things .

1:31:40>> Thank you very much for the invitation .

1:31:42It will always be a great pleasure to

1:31:44introduce you to the city . And , well ,

1:31:47very nice people . I am very glad to

1:31:50meet you . Please come , we will continue

1:31:53filming . We will definitely . Kirine ,

1:31:56contact us . The coordinates are on our

1:31:59screen . She will tell and show

1:32:01everything very well .

1:32:03>> Thank you very much .

1:32:04>> Until See you again .

1:32:05>> Until we meet again . Bye-bye .

1:32:07>> M.