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Inside the Japanese Luxury Fruit Market | So Expensive Food | Business Insider

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Intro

0:01While exploring

0:02the world's most expensive items,

0:04we uncovered some of the priciest fruits

0:06that can be found across Japan.

0:08From Ruby Roman grapes to Miyazaki mangoes,

0:11join us as we revisit

0:13what makes these fruits so expensive.

0:17First, we're heading to Ishikawa Prefecture

0:20to see why a single bunch

0:21of juicy red grapes might sell for $450.

Ruby Roman Grapes

0:28Narrator: The first thing you notice

0:29about Japanese Ruby Roman grapes is their size.

0:36Just one is about four times the size of an average grape.

0:42But inspectors look even closer.

0:45If the color of these grapes

0:46matches categories three or four on this color card,

0:50then just one bunch could sell for $90 to $450.

0:55But size and color are just two of the characteristics

0:58that define these luxury grapes.

1:01So what else do inspectors look for?

1:04And why are these grapes so expensive?

1:32Narrator: In Japanese culture,

1:33fruits are considered a luxury and gift item.

1:37In fact, Japanese supermarkets often won't sell fruits

1:40if they have any blemishes or aren't the right shape.

1:45Inspectors like Kazuyoshi Sakurai use very specific criteria

1:49to scrutinize each grain, or individual grape,

1:52that grows in Kahoku city.

2:20Narrator: Superior-grade grapes

2:21make up almost 90% of the harvest,

2:24and Special Superior grapes make up about 10%.

2:28Superior bunches can cost between $90 and $140.

2:33Special Superior grapes are priced at $180

2:36to as high as $450.

2:39But there's still one category higher than these two.

3:00Narrator: Only one or two bunches a year

3:03qualify as Premium in Kahoku.

3:05Farmers hope to sell one bunch of Premium grapes

3:08for over $1,000.

3:10Two bunches made the cut this year,

3:12but in 2019 and 2020,

3:15no grapes qualified for the Premium category.

3:19No matter the grade, though,

3:21all Ruby Roman grapes have a uniquely sweet flavor,

3:24according to Isu.

4:02Narrator: Harvesting starts in July,

4:03just in time for one of two

4:05main Japanese gift-giving holidays,

4:08Ochugen.

4:12The grapes are only grown in Ishikawa Prefecture,

4:16and they're cultivated in greenhouses,

4:18where farmers have better control over the growing process.

4:21Each grape is monitored and manicured,

4:24so that every one in a bunch looks totally identical.

4:28To produce grapes of the proper size,

4:31they use a grape-thinning device

4:33and a simple pair of scissors.

4:56Narrator: The second factor they control is light.

5:11Narrator: One way to control light

5:13is by adding or removing leaves near the vines.

5:16To confirm that enough light is getting into the greenhouse,

5:18farmers use a different tool.

5:36Narrator: Using a program they developed

5:37with a private IT company,

5:39farmers can then identify how much light

5:41they need to add or subtract.

6:08Narrator: The final complicated element

6:10for Ruby Roman grape farmers is temperature.

6:32Narrator: They open the sides and ceilings

6:34of the greenhouse

6:35to keep it as cool and ventilated as possible.

6:41And still, not all the Ruby Roman grapes farmers grow

6:44will be up to standard.

6:46Which is why supply is consistently limited.

6:50In 2020, only 25,000 Ruby Roman bunches were up for sale.

6:55That's a tiny fraction of Japan's yearly grape production,

6:59which was about 163,000 tons in 2020.

7:04It wasn't until 2008

7:06that the first Ruby Roman grapes went up for sale.

7:11The effort to create them started in 1995

7:14when local grape farmers

7:15and Ishikawa's Agricultural Research Center

7:18came together to develop a new breed of large red grape.

8:05Narrator: What they ended up with

8:06is the most expensive grape in the world.

8:09So expensive that in 2020,

8:12one bunch of these grapes sold at auction

8:14for $12,000.

8:16That's about $400 per grape.

Melons

8:23Narrator: This melon cost $200.

8:26But that's nothing compared to the price

8:28that some can reach.

8:30And in May 2019, two melons from Hokkaido sold

8:33at auction for 5 million yen.

8:35That's just over $45,000.

8:40So what is it that makes this fruit so expensive?

8:50From the Yubari King to the Andes,

8:51the Higo green melon, and many more,

8:54melons are grown up and down Japan,

8:55and they're serious business.

8:58The fruit isn't traditionally something you'd pick up

8:59as a snack in Japan, but is a luxury that often plays

9:02a big part in Japan's gift-giving culture.

9:05And they're not just admired for their taste,

9:07but for their looks as well.

9:10Crown melons are one of the most renowned varieties.

9:13Go into a high-end fruit store in Tokyo,

9:15and you're likely to see their signature stickers.

9:19The melons are only grown in Shizuoka prefecture,

9:21in central Japan, and can cost you over $200 each.

9:25Unlike the $5 mass-produced melons

9:27you're likely to come across in a Western supermarket,

9:30crown melons take constant care and attention to grow.

9:34Fumiyoshi Chujyo's family has been growing these melons

9:36for 60 years at his farm near Fukuroi.

10:10The farmers give the melons constant attention and care.

10:13Each melon takes 100 days to grow, and the fruit is grown

10:15all year round.

10:18There are 20 slightly different varieties

10:20of crown melon seeds grown depending on the season.

10:24The raised beds allow the farmers to control

10:26the amount of water each plant gets exactly,

10:28and air conditioning and heating keep the temperatures

10:30constant year-round.

10:34Crown melons have four grades: fuji, yama, shiro, and yuki.

10:39Any melons with even minor defects are marked as yuki,

10:43and the top three grades are marked on their sugar content

10:46and perfect appearance.

10:4855% of the melons make shiro grade, the third grade,

10:5125% are yama, and 0.1%, or one in 1,000

10:55of all melons harvested, are graded as fuji,

10:58the highest grade possible.

11:00After around 50 days, the plants begin to flower,

11:03and baby fruits start to appear.

11:05But the hard work has only just begun.

11:42This work is all done entirely by hand,

11:45and it isn't just about getting the taste right,

11:47but perfecting the appearance too.

11:49As the fruits get larger on each plant,

11:51they are carefully wrapped in white paper to protect them.

13:02Once this net pattern has developed,

13:04each melon is even massaged and polished by hand.

13:07It is then covered to protect it from the sun

13:09for its final growing period.

13:11The farmers can wear through multiple pairs of

13:13white gloves polishing these melons.

14:00But the work of the agricultural cooperatives

14:03also keeps their prices high.

14:05The Shizuoka Crown Melon company oversee the distribution

14:08and checks on melons from over 200 farmers.

14:11They ensure that the quality remains high

14:12and that the prices aren't undercut.

14:15The resulting taste is undeniably incredible.

14:18Each fruit has a complex balance of flavors

14:20and is perfectly juicy and sweet.

14:22But you'll have to decide for yourself

14:23whether the high price is worth it for the taste.

14:27Despite the cost, there's a big market

14:28for these fruits across Japan.

14:30Consumers are willing to pay to ensure that their

14:32gift is perfect, especially knowing the work that has

14:35gone into producing them.

14:36The melons are often sold in individual presentation boxes,

14:39sitting on silk or hay, or tied with a ribbon.

14:42And when choosing the perfect gift,

14:44the high price is often seen as a signifier of quality.

14:48So what about those $45,000 melons?

14:51At the start of the season, the perfect first fruits

14:53are auctioned off and are often sought after

14:55as a trophy for local businesses to bid on.

14:58A new record is set for the sale of these fruits

15:00almost every year, and it doesn't look like their price

15:03is going down anytime soon.

Miyazaki Mangoes

15:17Narrator: This pair of mangoes just sold for 500,000 yen.

15:22That's almost $4,000.

15:25These are not just any mangoes.

15:28They are Taiyo no Tamago, or Egg of the Sun:

15:31stunning, plump, red, perfectly unscratched,

15:35and incredibly sweet mangoes

15:36that are farmed in the Miyazaki Prefecture of Japan.

15:40Every April, the best mangoes from the prefecture

15:43are auctioned off at Miyazaki Central Wholesale Market.

15:49But although farmers in Miyazaki dedicate an entire year

15:52to preparing these mangoes for auction,

15:54there's no guarantee that the fruit

15:56will fetch such a high price.

15:58That's because before reaching the auctioning table,

16:01a mango has to be perfect inside and out.

16:13Narrator: So why are Taiyo no Tamago mangoes

16:15so difficult to grow,

16:16and what makes them so expensive?

16:20Mangoes farmed in Miyazaki are from the Irwin mango variety,

16:24a type often referred to as "apple mango,"

16:26as it turns red when ripe.

16:31Irwin mangoes are actually pretty common

16:33and are also grown in other parts of the world

16:35and sold at much lower prices.

16:39This is because the exclusivity of Taiyo no Tamago

16:42is not tied to which type of mango it is,

16:44but rather to the care it receives.

16:50In order to generate buzz at the auction,

16:54a mango needs bees.

16:58To increase their odds of success,

17:00farmers like Takuya usually rent bees

17:03during the flowering season.

17:05These are flowering mango plants.

17:07Bees play a crucial role in the pollination of the plants,

17:10as without them, mangoes would not grow as big as desired.

17:44Narrator: If a plant keeps flowering as the farmer wants,

17:47it can survive as long as 35 years.

17:50Takuya's plants are 20 years old.

17:53However, even if bees do pollinate the plants,

17:56it doesn't necessarily mean that all mangoes

17:58will qualify as Taiyo no Tamago this season.

18:02Only those that are in good shape, visibly contain pits,

18:05and are in good position will be given a chance.

18:11To successfully grow one,

18:13everything in the greenhouse needs to run smoothly.

18:16Temperature must be constant, the room ventilated,

18:20the air dehumidified,

18:22and the mangoes protected from gravity.

18:26When everything else is in place,

18:28Takuya's priority becomes the sunshine.

18:48Narrator: If a mango slumps into the shade,

18:50Takuya will tie it with a string to bring it back up.

18:53And to make sure that sunlight

18:54touches every part of the fruit equally,

18:57he developed these light reflectors out of milk cartons.

19:39Narrator: Regardless of how much it's worth,

19:42Takuya treats every mango with respect.

19:44In return, every mango repays him with a unique flavor.

20:05Narrator: Takuya has been growing mangoes for 16 years,

20:08a craft he learned from his father.

20:11This year, he grew 9,500 mangoes in his greenhouse.

20:15They're now ready to be inspected

20:17to see how many of them

20:18have earned the coveted Taiyo no Tamago title.

20:31The first inspection is done by human eye.

20:34Inspectors closely analyze each mango's appearance

20:37to ensure they are red all throughout,

20:39with no hints of green at the bottom.

20:41Then a machine sorts them according to sugar content,

20:44weight, and size.

20:59Narrator: These inspections sort the mangoes

21:01into five grades, two of which are Taiyo no Tamago.

21:24Narrator: The mangoes will now make their way

21:25to Miyazaki Central Wholesale Market for the auction.

21:29All the care and hard work that Takuya

21:31and other farmers in the prefecture put into their fruit

21:34are leading up to this very moment.

21:37The hope is to match or exceed the previous figure

21:40of 500,000 yen.

22:14Narrator: The auction has officially begun

22:16at the Miyazaki Central Wholesale Market.

22:39Narrator: This year's 500,000 yen

22:41is 300,000 yen higher than last year

22:44and matches the 2019 record.

22:49And the farmer who grew these mangoes is ...

22:53Takuya.

23:01Narrator: It's the third year in a row

23:02his mangoes fetched the highest price at the auction.

23:06They have been bought by a department store in Fukuoka.

23:30Narrator: Today's outcome was a successful one for Takuya.

23:33But even in a country

23:34with a strong gift-giving culture, like Japan,

23:37it's not always guaranteed

23:38that such a luxury fruit will find a buyer at auction.

24:08Narrator: After flowering, fruiting,

24:10harvesting, and auctioning,

24:12Takuya's mango plants are ready for a new season.

24:16And the hard work isn't over yet.

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